Theo Smit wrote:
> A good rule of thumb on tantalum caps is 5x the working voltage. So, at least
>60
> V rating, and preferably more, since you're dumping all of the solenoid's
> current into it.
Thanks for the 'ratings multiplier'. Do you have any Idea how BIG a 60V
Tantalum
is. As I recall, they are pretty small fro their capacity and rating (and
expensive, relatively).
> I haven't looked into the pump electrics at all, but doesn't it have some kind
> of pressure shutoff in it? When I turn on the ignition, it clicks for a few
> seconds and then stops. When the car is running, I assume the pump is pumping
> but I can't hear how often it clicks over the engine noise.
Slowly at idle, after filling the bowl rapidly in the morning, and very fast at
speed.
Yes, that is exactly how it works, but nothing very complex. When the pump
feels a
back pressure from the carburetor needle valve inlet, it stops. When the carb
float sinks, opening the valve, the pressure drops and the pump fills up the
bowl
again. I believe this is just a simple spring loaded contact. Remember, this
is
OLD technology that has stood the test of years of service and British
complacency
with things electric, and veneration of traditional values. Similar SU pumps
were
used in pre-war British cars, and I'm not saying which war. {9->
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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