At 02:27 PM 11/8/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Thanks for the reply. I had been thinking about loosening the left side
>headers as a next plan. Mine are not Rick's headers but are the CAT
>headers.
>
Mike Wood has the story essentially straight on installing headers , cast
motor mounts, and rubber insulators simultaneously. Wrapping the mounts
and header tubes with bubble packing material can reduce the marring of
components during this assembly. Just be sure to remove all this flammable
stuff before you start it up. Another point is that is desirable to "fit"
the headers to the engine outside of the car initially to make those
"adjustments" necessary to allow bolt and wrench clearance. Then it is
typical to "fit" the headers to the car. This is when you get to make the
minor dents and adjust clearances to make sure that you have a rattle and
rub free installation. You can also take this opportunity to adjust the
collectors so that the line up with the exhaust holes in the frame and
adjusting or changing the connection flanges. Then the headers are ready
for cleanup and the coating of your choice. Sand blasting and high temp
spray can paint is good for one season before it begins to look tired. The
high temperature coatings available in the after market will increase the
longevity of your headers by years and are well worth the expense.
Installing CAT's large tube headers is the subject of an STOA Tech Tip
currently in process. I'm writing it with Don Whitely and hope to have it
finished by January.
Tom Hall
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