Adding to what Tom said below......I also trimmed the steel motor mount
platforms to allow for the header. I ground a bit out and then polished
the recess smooth, followed by a repaint. Looks great and I didn't have
to smash the headers in near the motor mount area. Both sides had to be
modified for a clean fit.
Chris in Trinidad
Tom Hall wrote:
>
> At 02:27 PM 11/8/99 -0800, you wrote:
> >Thanks for the reply. I had been thinking about loosening the left side
> >headers as a next plan. Mine are not Rick's headers but are the CAT
> >headers.
> >
> Mike Wood has the story essentially straight on installing headers , cast
> motor mounts, and rubber insulators simultaneously. Wrapping the mounts
> and header tubes with bubble packing material can reduce the marring of
> components during this assembly. Just be sure to remove all this flammable
> stuff before you start it up. Another point is that is desirable to "fit"
> the headers to the engine outside of the car initially to make those
> "adjustments" necessary to allow bolt and wrench clearance. Then it is
> typical to "fit" the headers to the car. This is when you get to make the
> minor dents and adjust clearances to make sure that you have a rattle and
> rub free installation. You can also take this opportunity to adjust the
> collectors so that the line up with the exhaust holes in the frame and
> adjusting or changing the connection flanges. Then the headers are ready
> for cleanup and the coating of your choice. Sand blasting and high temp
> spray can paint is good for one season before it begins to look tired. The
> high temperature coatings available in the after market will increase the
> longevity of your headers by years and are well worth the expense.
>
> Installing CAT's large tube headers is the subject of an STOA Tech Tip
> currently in process. I'm writing it with Don Whitely and hope to have it
> finished by January.
>
> Tom Hall
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