Chris, what to you want to do with your car. Is there something wrong now?
Changing brake components are not necessarily a bolt on, and may feel
fine on the street under normal driving, but things change when you are
on the track, or in a panic/emergency situation. That is not the time
to find out that the bolt on has a Dr Jeckle/Mr. Hyde trait.
What condition is your suspension, stock/modified braking system, new or
old tires (4 years). Everything really works together, so if you add
something that out performs the rest of the parts, it really does no good.
This is an excerpt of an email sent to another owner, re changing the MC.
Larry
The tandem MC, dual is side by side or 2 MC's, is not just a bolt in, at
least for the ones I have put in my car. You have to run new lines to
the the front and rear, depending on the MC used, use an adjustable
clevis pin, hammer the inner fender well for the MC to fit, and then if
you have changed any braking components front or rear, make sure you
match the braking force front to rear, or the car can do a 180 degree.
I have only worked with after market calipers, not the stock Tiger brakes.
Of course, your pedal pressure will depend on the size of the MC, and
without the booster, which you can not use, can be very high with the
pedal ratio, of the Tiger, which is made for a booster.
Chris Hill wrote:
> In general reference to what Kris Waters said : whatever happened to the
> thread on this list about different master cylinders (larger bore?) and the
> elimination of the booster while still maintaining reasonable pedal pressure.
> It seemed to die out just when it was getting interesting. Larry Paulick?,
> Derek? Seems like you guys were involved? I'm just about at the point of
> doing brake lines and I'd like to run state of the art, but what is it?
>
> Chris Hill
>
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