Pat,
Well you're right about one thing, the older alternators are getting harder
to find as rebuilt.
You can install a later 15-20 ACR easily it if has the single rectangular
(with a corner notch) three prong spade connector. Lucas still produces a
plug conversion kit that's available here in the states for about $6.00. The
Lucas Part # is CYB 400. By installing this plug into you harness, you'll be
able to use later model alternators.
There are three wires that attach to the new plug:
1) A 10 gauge brown wire that runs from a "+" terminal at the alternator to
the
same terminal on the starter solenoid that connects to the "+" battery wire.
This is you charging circuit. I don't know about your car, but there may be
another similar size brown wire that leads from that connection, back through
the firewall, and ties into another bunch of brown wires that supply current
for the non-fused lighting circuits.
2) A small brown wire, about a 16 gauge hooks into either the other "+" or
"S" spade at the alternator and, again, goes back into the main harness. This
wire is used by alternators that have an external voltage sensing regular (as
opposed to an internal, machine sensing regulator). If your really curious,
regulators with a two wire (black & yellow) are machine sensing, 3 or 4 wire
(additional red & white) are external sensing and "fail safe" units.
3) The third brown/yellow connects to the "IND" alternator spade and goes to
the warning light on the dash. The other side of that socket is wired into
the "run" position (white wires) of the wiring harness. The bulb, in addition
to showing an imbalance of what's in the battery vs. what's coming out of the
alternator, supplies current to the field windings of the alternator when the
car is switched "on". That get the magnetic field up and working more
quickly.
Hope that helps,
Charlie B.
Capital Triumph Register
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