In a message dated 96-11-16 12:14:52 EST, email@example.com (Stuart
<< nobody on this thread has mentioned the diabolical choke set up
on the SU's, which requires two hands to yank on, and doesn't work worth a
The choke setup on my TR3 works very well, and those who owned them when new
will tell you that they worked fine. The problem with the choke setup on
most TR3's today is caused by:
1. Worn or replacement choke cables. Those supplied by Moss, TRF, and
others are cheap, shitty imitations of the real thing. I got an original out
of a Triumph dealer parts inventory that I bought out of storage. It is far
more substantial, and really holds well wherever you set it. (If you can't
find an original in good shape, perhaps one could adapt an airplane vernier
throttle or prop cable mechanism, available from Wicks or Alexanders- I could
supply addresses if anyone is interested.)
2. Worn choke linkages. I drilled out all of the holes for clevis pins
etc. and replaced with slightly oversized items, and the difference was
startling. Also, the linkage between the rear and front choke levers is
almost invariably hooked up wrong on every TR3 I see. The front choke lever
is NOT supposed to be between the legs of the fork on the front of the
connecting rod. Both legs of the fork are supposed to be outboard of the
choke lever, and the choke cable is inboard of the choke lever.
3. Carbs neeeding work. The float level setting, if it is off, will
have more effect when the choke is engaged than at any other time. This is
also true, to a lesser degree, of air leaks and worn or mis-centered needles
In short, like many of the problems we have with our LBC's, it is more a
problem of proper maintenance and restoration than a problem with design.
That said, you can't expect your 30+ year old LBC to idle and run like a
modern fuel injected car.
"If someone asks you how many cars you own, and the answer includes any kind
of a fraction, you MIGHT own too many Triumphs."