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Re: TR3/4 Carbs

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR3/4 Carbs
From: Stuart Bollen <stuartb@voicenet.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 10:40:29 -0500 (EST)
At 07:11 AM 11/17/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>From: Paulsv@aol.com
>>Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 12:43:17 -0500
>>To: stuartb@voicenet.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: TR3/4 Carbs
>>Sender: owner-triumphs@triumph.cs.utah.edu
>>Reply-To: Paulsv@aol.com
>>
>>In a message dated 96-11-16 12:14:52 EST, stuartb@voicenet.com (Stuart
>>Bollen) writes:
>>
>><< nobody on this thread has mentioned the diabolical choke set up
>> on the SU's, which requires two hands to yank on, and doesn't work worth a
>> damn. >>
>>
>>The choke setup on my TR3 works very well, and those who owned them when new
>>will tell you that they worked fine.  The problem with the choke setup on
>>most TR3's today is caused by:
>>
>>     1.  Worn or replacement choke cables.  Those supplied by Moss, TRF, and
>>others are cheap, shitty imitations of the real thing.  I got an original out
>>of a Triumph dealer parts inventory that I bought out of storage.  It is far
>>more substantial, and really holds well wherever you set it.  (If you can't
>>find an original in good shape, perhaps one could adapt an airplane vernier
>>throttle or prop cable mechanism, available from Wicks or Alexanders- I could
>>supply addresses if anyone is interested.)
>>
>>     2.  Worn choke linkages.  I drilled out all of the holes for clevis pins
>>etc. and replaced with slightly oversized items, and the difference was
>>startling.  Also, the linkage between the rear and front choke levers is
>>almost invariably hooked up wrong on every TR3 I see.  The front choke lever
>>is NOT supposed to be between the legs of the fork on the front of the
>>connecting rod.  Both legs of the fork are supposed to be outboard of the
>>choke lever, and the choke cable is inboard of the choke lever.
>>
>>     3.  Carbs neeeding work.  The float level setting, if it is off, will
>>have more effect when the choke is engaged than at any other time.  This is
>>also true, to a lesser degree, of air leaks and worn or mis-centered needles
>>and jets.
>>
>>In short, like many of the problems we have with our LBC's, it is more a
>>problem of proper maintenance and restoration than a problem with design.
>> That said, you can't expect your 30+ year old LBC to idle and run like a
>>modern fuel injected car.
>>
>>Best Regards
>>Paul
>>
>>"If someone asks you how many cars you own, and the answer includes any kind
>>of a fraction, you MIGHT own too many Triumphs."
>>
>>
>
>I had an alomost new 63 TR3 adn I had no trouble with starting it in cold
>weather. As with most equipment, if you have it together according to specs,
>(not always easy todo!), most things work as designed....even these cars!
>
>
>I guess the biggest problem I have had was due to exactly what you say. I
bought three choke cables from Moss, all in nice plastic bags with a Union
Jack on them, and then a little gold label on the knob saying "made in
Taiwan". After a couple of uses they would not lock in the out position and
I used clothes pegs to jam them out. I must admit I didn't realise the choke
lever went outside the fork. So why on earth did they make that fork? To
make sure we put it together wrong to sell choke cables I guess. Anyway, I'm
off to my cold garage to put it the way you suggest and will report back. (
I still like the Stromberg set up better though, and they are trouble free
so far).


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