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> From: Brian Day <1briand@mail.airmail.net>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: J-Type Overdrive
> Date: Wednesday, July 09, 1997 10:22 AM
>
>
> My Overdrive has developed a nasty habit of selectively working. It will
> stay engaged for anywhere from 20 seconds to 20 minutes (shorter when
warm)
> and then disengage. If I turn the switch off and turn it on again, the
same
> result occurs - overdrive engages, but for a limited time period.
>
> Any ideas???
>
>
> Brian Day
> '73 TR6 CF9167 UO
> 1briand@airmail.net
Brian-
Assuming no new "noises" from the gearbox, check/change the fluid. That
probably won't help, but you'll feel better.
When you find that the new fluid didn't help, go get into your grungies
(it's gonna get messy). Remove the lower "finned" lookin plate on the
bottom of the overdrive and you'll find a thin screen that should be
cleaned out. If that screen is dirty/full of gunk, you will really need to
continue (good idea for everybody to do this as preventative maintenance
too). Above the plate you will find 3 plugs with a pair of "dimples" in
each one. These plugs unscrew from the od unit, but you probably do not
have Churchill tool number whatever. So, go buy yourself a set of needle
nose pliers that have the tips bent 90 degrees to the rest of the pliers.
Grind the tips down until they resemble both the size and the shape of the
"dimples" in the plugs. Congratulations, you now own your own "special" TR
tool. Unscrew the largest of the plugs and you will find a filter up in the
hole. These things can really get packed up almost solid if a layshaft is
on its way out. It really is amazing just how much crud they can hold in
the folds. If the filter has got a goodly amount of swarf in it, you're
gonna want to pull the relief valve also as it can get jammed with
excessive crud. The relief valve is the one farthest from the filter plug,
and your new tool will unscrew it as well. Note how it comes apart, clean
it and reassemble.
If all this attention results in disappointment, pull the solenoid out and
clean the seat for it too (esp good idea if lots-o-stuff found previously).
Go back to the cheapy tool mart and get a 1" open end wrench and grind the
thickness down to about 1/2 at the open end so that it will fit past the
solenoid body onto the nut. DO NOT be tempted to try to unscrew the
solenoid by gripping/turning the body of the valve. If you do, you will not
pass go, but it will cost you $200.
Piece-o-cake...
Now go try to get the ickky/smelly oil off of you and throw the grungies
away.
If none of this works, remember, you didn't hear it from me...
Nick in Nor Cal
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