Jim Cullen wrote:
>
> Well its time to attack another area of "Jade" in my ongoing apprenticeship..
> Before I do so I am searching out the wisdom of the list. Approximately 2
> months ago I replace balljoints and tire-rod ends and noticed a significant
> improvement in the "looseness" of steering. However, I noticed after doing
> that it seemed that there were still some looseness and could see that it
> was the front tire hub that seemed to have the play. I had an alignment done
> after I did the balljoints and tire rod ends and was told that the bearings
> were loose and that the guy tightened them for me. Now when I drive once I
> get to 90 km/hr (55 miles/hr I think?). I start to get serious steering
> wheel vibration, and what I'll describe as unsmoothness from the front end..
> At lower speeds no significant problem, but I hear a faint sound from
> drivers front wheel. My questions are:
>
> i) This sounds like a bearing problem right?
> ii) My reading through the Haynes manual seems to tell me this is a
> straightforward job, right? any suggestions, tips, shortcuts?
> iii) When replacing and purchasing parts I see there is an outer and
> inner bearing, these should both be replaced - right? Are they sold as
> a kit?
>
> I had also like to send a belated thank you to all the people (especially
> Charlie Brown) who helped out with my rad problem (about six weeks ago). I
> had a shop repair the rad ($65). Everything is improved. I also found out
> that since I have owned "jade" (2.5 years) I haven't had a thermostat. I
> read with interest the comments/science on the recent thermostat thread. My
> experience for what it is worth. I know I now run a little hotter in normal
> conditions (I put in a 180 degree thermostat, thinking of going to 160
> degress), but with the thermostat I get to 3/4 and stay there, wheras,
> before the thermostat in stop and go traffic or hot days "jade" would shoot
> right past 3/4 and be running dangerously hot. I also learned I should get
> some radiator valences/shrouds - can you make your own?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jim Cullen
> 1974 Spitfire
Good luck on taking off the wheel dust caps to get at the bearings. I've
had a bitch of a job getting the off as the threads strip out when I
used a bolt to remove them (as per standard instructions). I ended up
bashing them off and ruining one beyond repair. If you do succeed, epoxy
a nut on the inside of the dust cap that will take a standard bolt
(10-24 or 1/4"). Now you'll be able to get the sucker off without any
problem.
As per the vibration from the front, it sounds more like a wheel balance
problem. If you want to check the bearings, as a first check, lift the
wheel off the ground and spin it by hand. If it turns very quietly, the
bearings are smooth and not likely worn, but they could still be loose.
If you sense a grinding sound as the wheel turns, the bearings are shot.
You can check for looseness by removing the cotter pin and tighening the
spindle nut. I like to tighten it up first by wrench using light torque,
then loosen it off, then tighten finger tight. If the nut ends up in the
same spot as it was before, the bearings were not loose. Since you've
gone this far, you should get the bearings out and check and re-pack
them anyways.
Remove all the grease using a solvent (gas works great but kabooms if
ignited). Check the bearing surfaces for discoloration or wear marks. If
either, replace them. Spin the bearings in your fingers and if they run
smooth, they are OK. If they seem noisy and grindy, replace them.
Re-pack the bearings using quality wheel bearing grease. I'm sure
everyone has there preferences here.
Doing bearing work is dirty, greasy work but it's not high tech stuff.
You can do both sides in an evening an still have time to take it for a
test ride (if you don't have problems getting the dust caps off).
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