In my case, the transmission end of the cable housing had just plain
worked itself loose and subsequently, off. I was replacing the clutch
at the time so I can't really say if this operation can be performed from
under the car.
Mike
79 Spit
> From cnicholl@lawson.epri.com Mon Jul 28 11:27:36 1997
> From: "Nicholls, Clark" <cnicholl@lawson.epri.com>
> To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
> "'romano@bellatrix.pcl.ox.ac.uk'" <romano@bellatrix.pcl.ox.ac.uk>
> Subject: RE: Spit1500, Speedometer problem
> Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 13:22:55 -0400
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>
> Try ignoring the removal of the tunnel and crawl underneath and see what
> you can reach. I believe it can all be done down under...
>
> BTW. it sounds like the right angle adaptor on the OD may have
> broken... usually leaving a 1/2" bit remaining in the transmission
> speedo drive socket.
>
> Clark
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> Visit me at: http://members.aol.com/cwnicholls
>
> >----------
> >From:
>romano@bellatrix.pcl.ox.ac.uk[SMTP:romano@bellatrix.pcl.ox.ac.uk]
> >Sent: Monday, July 28, 1997 12:53 PM
> >To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Spit1500, Speedometer problem
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >My speedometer stopped working recently on my Spit1500. While driving, from
> > one second to the other the needle fell from ~40mph to zero and stayed
> > there. The mileage counters (or how ever they are called) do not work
> > anymore, either.
> >
> >What have I done so far: Disengaged the speedometer from the speedometer
> > cable (what was the average hand size for mechanics when the
> >Spit-dashboard/
> > instrument setup was designed?), pulled out the inner cable. The cable
> >seems
> > to be o.k. It does not look like being broken and has a flattened end (I
> >have
> > not seen a speedometer inner cable before) where it is supposed to engage
> > in the overdrive pinion gear (right expression?). Then I checked the
> > speedometer itself by inserting a screwdriver instead of the cable and
> > turning it. The needle responded as well as the trip mileage counter. The
> > last test I did was to insert the inner cable fully again (it appeared to
> > engage also at the overdrive end) and to drive the car and to check whether
> > it turns or not. It did not.
> >
> >According to my opinion everything points to a problem at the overdrive end.
> >
> >Now the question: What next? Any other diagnostics to run before I go through
> > the "working through the transmission tunnel" procedure in order to have
> > a look at the other end (where it is connected to the overdrive). Is there
> > any trick to avoid this seemingly tedious procedure (take out the seats,
> > etc. ....).
> >
> >If I have to go through the "working through the transmission tunnel"
> > procedure, are there any things to consider/are there any advices. The
> > Haynes manual is rather unclear about the procedure to disconnect the
> > gear leaver (at least to me, a rather unexperienced "mechanic"), especially
> > when it contains the overdrive switch. Any detailed description of this
> > procedure would be higlhy appreciated.
> >
> >What else should I consider?
> >
> >Cheers
> >Romano
> >Spit1500
> >Oxford UK
> >
> >PS: Many thanks to those who replied to my "radio installation" question.
> > I finally installed a stock radio in the hole (which is too high) under
> > the dashboard by supporting the radio with a piece of wood, works fine,
> > looks good. The loudspeakers I mounted in the rear panel. I took rather
> > "flat" ones, 5.9 cm of depth. In order to accomodate them well and to gain
> > also some resonance body I inserted some "filling material" between the
> > panel and the metal where it is bolted onto, thereby moving it some cm's
> > more to the front. Visually there is no difference, but soundwise!
> > I went for an antenna which I could mount underneath the passengers
> > glove box. (O.k. I admit, I'm not a purist)
> >
> >PSPS: I think this list is great!!!!!!
> >
> >
>
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