Thanks Dan.
I follow all you say except one thing. On my diagram (from Bentley) for
the 75-76 (it combines them into one diagram), I cannot see the starter
solenoid. The white red wire comes off the ignition/starter switch (is
this the solenoid?) #4, and goes to the starter relay #7. I had wondered
about the "lack of activity" on the starter relay but forgot to mention
it my previous post. In any event I will do as you say and run a white
wire to the sport coil.
What guage/rating of wire should I buy for this purpose? I will be
soldering the connection together and then placing heat shrink tubing
around the joint. If I can somehow run it along the harness and just
branch off the same place where the current white-yellow and shoelace
wires branch off I will do that as well to keep a clean appearance.
BTW, your suggestion was different from that of Barry Schwartz who
suggested that the ceramic thing is the resistor. Is this noise
suppressor also a 75-76 only part which was left off the wiring diagram?
I assume it should be included and labelled as such?
Thanks for all your help and info!
Peter Zaborski
76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
Calgary AB Canada
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DANMAS@aol.com [SMTP:DANMAS@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 15, 1997 6:31 PM
> To: peterz@merak.com
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports Coil
>
> If you look at item number 7, the "starter motor relay," you will find
> it doesn't do anything. There is one wire going to it, and nothing
> coming
> out. In '74 and '75, the only other years the ballast wire was used,
> the
> starter motor relay was used to bypass the ballast resister. In '76,
> they
> moved the bypass function to a contact on the starter solenoid
> instead. It
> appears that the draftsmen begin to modify the schematic by using
> white-out
> to remove the old wires, but didn't finish the job by adding in the
> new
> wires.
>
> I believe the white/yellow wire now joined to the "shoelace" wire at
> the coil
> goes on down to the extra contact shown on the solenoid, just below
> the white
> red wire. On the schematic, this would be shown as a "dot" on the line
> now
> shown as the pink/white "transforming" into white/yellow wire, with
> the
> white/yellow attaching to this dot, and then continuing on to the
> solenoid.
> This would account for "this pink-white is then "transformed" into a
> white
> yellow wire via part #9 - ballast resister." If this is not exactly
> the case,
> something very similar to it is. Whatever the configuration, making
> the mods
> as described above will bypass the resistance wire, with no impact on
> anything else.
>
> I know this is hard to visualize from a written description, but if
> you have
> a '74 - '75 schematic, you will see what I am talking about.
>
> If anyone on the list has corrected their copy of the '76 schematic, I
> would
> love to get a copy of it, or ar least a description of the corrections
> needed.
>
> I hope this clears everything up for you. If not, don't hesitate to
> call on
> me again.
>
> Dan Masters,
> Alcoa, TN
>
> '71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
> '71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion
> - see:
> http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
> '74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition
> '68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
|