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From: Perry T. Hammock <phammock@ivy.tec.in.us>
To: 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: TR3 Overdrive and flooding
Date: Wednesday, September 24, 1997 7:51 AM
1) Has anyone tried to tie an indicator light to the overdrive switch
(mine has the early push pull switch)? I'm having so much fun when driving
- grinning like a fool, waving to the masses, picking bugs off my teeth -
that I don't mind the overdrive as I should. Thought I would put a green
TR indicator light right between the tach and speedo. I regularly look at
one or the other.
2) I am experiencing some sort of raw fuel thing after I shut the car off.
Runs pretty well (performed my first SU tune-up last weekend, got it
almost right!). After sitting, you can smell a garage full of unburned gas.
Seems to be strongest in the passenger footwell, guess its from the carbs.
DPO has routed overflows through tubing to under the chassis - I replaced
with a set of original tubes up to the air cleaners (not stock) like stock.
Is there supposed to be something in these tubes? The were filled with
gunk when given to me - so I cleaned them out - may be my problem. I also
get flooding when turning hard right, but not left. The floats appear to
be set lower than recommended by the manual (1/2" instead of 7/16) which
should make it harder to flood when turning, yes?
3) TIA for the advice. Pray for a loonng fall!
Perry Hammock
TS 65000 something O stinking up the joint!
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Perry-
Yeah a light is a VERY good idea if you don't pay attention...
One forgetful moment with the gear lever (heading for reverse in od), is
gonna ruin your whole day. (My personal "best" is about 100 yards before it
exploded....)
Carb problems seem to idicate high float levels (Actually, the smell after
you turn it off may not be something you can deal with easily. The float
bowls on these cars are gettin a little "long in the tooth" and may have
become porous enough to allow the gas to seep through the metal itself. If
this is the case you can have the float chambers "sealed" so that they no
longer seep. To test this easily, just lightly paint the outside of the
chambers with most any type of paint. After a few days, if it appears to be
"running" off the chamber sides, then suspect porous chamber walls).
The float levels themselves should be checked visually down thru the top
into the jet itself. Run the car, pull the pistons out and look down into
the jet for the fuel level. Use a flashlight to see the level (blowing in
easy "puffs" will help, as the level will "bounce" to your blowing). This
is an accurate "in situ" test to see where the fuel level really is, as
opposed to the setting of the lever stops with a steel bar. The fuel level
should be the same in both carbs, and approx 1/4" below the jet head (all
cars vary so this is just a starting place). If the level is higher than
this, and I think it will be, you must remove some fuel from the float
chambers, then crank the motor (or use your hand pump) to refill the float
chambers. Multiple readings are usually needed, but this method gives you a
"true" float level reading.
If this is not clear to you (or anyone), lemme know and we can discuss it
further without a waste-o-bandwidth...
Usually in over my head myself...
Nick in Nor Cal
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