Hi Ed,
I had a similar problem on my '74 TR6, especially when inserting the reverse
gear. First I had rebuild master and slave cylinders. The problem wasn’t
solved!
Than I had exchanged clutch cover and plate and the release bearing as well. I
had a closer look at the release fork and I found a slightly bend fork pin. I
was happy that I found the reason and replaced it with a high-strength
replacement from Moos (part# 158777HD). The clutch worked fine, however I had
to
push the clutch pedal completely down to the bottom before the clutch fully
released. I could use the rear gear without any noise. I still was not happy
with it. I decided to drive the car this season and have a closer look at the
master cylinder during winter time. (Unfortunately, I can only drive my car for
5-6 month a year. In Germany, they through tons of salt onto the streets during
the winter, which causes corrosion faster than I’m able to weld)
Next winter I removed the master cylinder and I finally found the main reason:
the eyes of the pushrod were oval (hope you understand what I mean, I don’t
know
the English expression for it) and the clevis pin was totally worn. This added
almost 6 millimeters travel before the clutch started to release.
Unfortunately,
the pushrod is not available as an separate item (comes only with a complete
cylinder) so I welded two washers on each side of the pushrod and used a new
pin. After I had reassembled everything, I had a totally new feeling when using
the clutch. It completely releases after 2/3 pedal way and I had no clutch
release problems even after a fast 4 hour ride on the motorway. I also replaced
the hose (the one which is connected to the slave cylinder) by a stainless
steel
braided one. This hose was made of some kind of 'plastic' and was heavily
warmed
up from the engine. Probably this might have caused additional pedal travel.
I propose when you rebuild the clutch, exchange the fork pin, the master
cylinder push rod, the plastic hose (if your car is equipped with one) and
check
the release fork whether it is bend - and of cause bleed the system.
Hope that helps.
Feel free to contact me if you need further help.
Jochen Saal
’74 TR6
jochen.saal@t-online.de
Ed Torrence wrote:
> I've had trouble getting my posting to go through. My apologies if you've
> seen this before.
>
> My '71 TR-6 runs fine when it's cold. But after it warms up, I sometimes
> cannot get the car to downshift into first or second. Turn the engine off
> and it will slip into gear easily. There's no grinding or scraping noises.
> Other than occassionally refusing to downshift, the clutch and transmission
> sound and feel fine. Of course, it only does this when I'm at a traffic
> light and there are 5000 cars behind me.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated. I'm not sure where to start on this one.
>
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