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Re: floorboards

To: "Mark A. Bunce" <bunce@alma.edu>
Subject: Re: floorboards
From: "Dan Arrington" <gt6nut@foxinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 04:21:22 -0800
Cc: "triumphs" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>

----------
> From: Mark A. Bunce <bunce@alma.edu>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: floorboards
> Date: Monday, December 15, 1997 9:54 AM
> 
> 
> After looking at my floorboards all weekend, I decided it was
> easier to replace the inner, reinforcement plate, outer and floor-
> board as one instead of trying to repair the rust.

GOOD IDEA!

> For you that have
> done this, what do you use to prime the bare metal that  will
> be hidden, i.e. inside the rockers ? 

The new parts will come primed. But you will need to re prime after
welding. 
I would suggest a good quality Epoxy primer. Such as PPG or Siemens.
Also you will need to use seam sealer along all of the seams that have ANY
chance of letting water in. (this comes in a tube for a caulking gun)
 

>Also how do you support the
> body  when you take out the sills? I was thinking of cutting the floor
> free from the sills but leaving in place until I get the sills in.

This is basically what i did. It worked just fine. 
You will find that when you drill out the spot welds along the rockers they
will be loose from the floor. Then just tack the new rockers in place at
the front and rear,   
and you should be ready to remove the floor.    

 >Is a continuous seam better then spot welding?

Nope, the seam sealer will keep the moisture out if that is what you are
worried about. Also this is thin sheet metal. EASY to burn through when
trying a continuous weld.



>Lastly, should I drill the sills
> and re-undercover when done. Thanks.

I'm not  too shure what you mean here so i wont comment. :-) 

Dan Arrington(near Portland,Oregon)
gt6nut@foxinternet.net
http://www.foxinternet.net/web2/gt6nut/index.htm

69 GT6 (Under Construction)


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