Joe wrote:
Mark,
I'll weigh in on the side of using a spot weld removal tool. It's like a
drill
bit that's hollow but has a spring-loaded centering flute to get it
started. I
got mine at an Auto Body Supply Store.
You find the center of the weld, drill it out and it leaves behind a hole
in one
surface and the center of the weld on the other surface. All you then have
to do
is take a grinder to the raised portion and it's ready to install the new
pan.
Only one thing you have to remember, drill through the surface that is
being
replaced, not the other way around. Otherwise you end up with holes in the
good
part.
Joe Curry '63 Spit
I replaced the floor boards in my TR6. I ended up drilling out the spot
welds completely - drilling through both the floor board and the lip on the
sills, firewall and rear panels. This worked out well for me in the end.
When fitting the new floor boards the new metal acted like a dam and I
could fill weld the holes in the lips. A quick swip with the grinder and
the metal smoothed out such that you can barely see the welds!
Just food for thought.
Dave,
San Diego
1970 TR6 PI RHD CP51649
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