Dan writes...
>I don't think there is any question about that. In the financial condition
>they were in, they needed to save every penny. But, General Motors, Ford, and
>Chrysler all did and still do the same thing.
Dan...are you saying that on a General Motors car a failure in oil
pressure will illuminate the brake failure lamp?
This is how my '74 Spit was designed to operate. A low oil pressure
condition will illuminate both the oil pressure lamp and the brake
failure lamp. It's not telling me the information I need to know.
In this event the only way I can tell if the brakes are really working
is to test them. I can't trust the brake failure lamp...it's lying to
me. :-)
He he...this thread has got me thinking about some of the changes made
to triumphs in the '70. I'll have to send you a followup. :-)
>After I wrote my previous response, I took a look at the wiring diagram I made
>for my TR6/302 project. It had been a while since I looked at it, so I had
>forgotten how I did it on that car. What I did there was to add a handbrake
>warning switch, and wired it in parallel with the brake failure switch.
I want this too. I have the switch from a later car. Perhaps I'll
get it hooked in this summer during my cosmetic refresh.
> This
>way, I get a positive indication that the light is working any time I pull up
>the hand brake with the key on, but while driving, the light will never come
>on unless I have an actual brake failure switch operation. Most of the time,
>I have the handbrake on whenever I park the car, and I don't release it until
>after the car is started, so I can be sure I will always have a chance to
>check the light.
This seems like a reasonable workaround.
>The oil pressure switch gets a light of its own. Of course, this is a Ford
>pressure switch, rather than a Lucas or Triumph make. I also have a solid
>state (low current drain) warning buzzer tied between the oil pressure switch
>and the headlight switch, so I get a warning if I shut off the engine with the
>lights on. I have an electronic switch wired to the fuel sender, using a 555
>timer module, to light up a warning lamp if the fuel level drops below a
>preset (adjustable) level. I have another warning chime tied to the hidden
>anti-theft fuel pump cutoff switch, so if I forget to turn the pump back on
>and try to drive off, I get a warning. I have another chime tied to the turn
>signals so I don't forget to turn them off on the interstates where the wind
>noise is so much that I can't hear the flasher working.
Holy Mackerel! No wonder you've been busy! I like the fuel level
alarm. I take it the timer is there to buffer the set point?
>If you haven't guessed by now, I am at that age where forgetfullness is
>getting to be an annoyance!
He he...part of me wants to modify the wiring of my Spit for better
and/or more reliable operation. For example, if I ever refinish the
dash again I'd like to add a second directional indicator. One for a
left and right turn...just like a *real* car. Okay, OK...my car is
really more like a VW and they only use one. :-)
What holds me back though is my concern that I'll be creating a
"custom" wiring job that is not documented in the manuals.
I don't know how you feel, but whenever a Lister asks for help on an
electrical problem, and then adds that he/she thinks the car may have
been rewired, I get this cold chill up my spine. :-)
Because you're doing an engine conversion you have no choice but to
rewire and any future owner would expect this.
Hey.....wait a second here. Did you decide to put that big ol' Ford
lump in there just so you'd have an EXCUSE to add all the neat
bells and whistles?
Engineers...geesh! :-)
>What were we talking about?
Sure...plead the 5th!
:-)
Cheers!
Tom O'Malley in Southbridge Massachusetts
'74, '77 Spits
|