:> Since I am rather new to British cars (and cars with Carbs to boot) I am
:> having
:> a bit of a problem diagnosing my 73 TR6's problem.
:>
:> It start perfectly when cold, no hesitation and starts in under a second.
:> However after driving for a bit and getting the engine warm it starts to be
:> very
:> hesitant (unresponsive to the throttle unless pumped and then floored, then
:> it
:> mellows out) and will stall if I don't force the idle to at least 1200 RPM.
:> If
:> I park it after a warm up drive (>10 Miles or 20 minutes) it won't start
:> until
:> the engine cools for at least an hour.
:
:Richard, IMO -carbs may not be the problem. An old rule which I try to follow
:is "Carbs last -- after everything else is eliminated". The reason we go for
:the carbs first is because they sit right there looking at us (and with those
:big air cleaners!). SU's and ZS's are simple devices really and are not prone
:to just "go out."
:
:Check your ignition system (points, condensor, coil etc.) and the other parts
:of the fuel system (pump, linkages etc.) before monkeying with the carbs
:themselves. Please let us know what you found after you find it. Cheers.
:
:Art Kelly
:
Ignition system seems ok and fuel system seems to supply a steady flow. The
plugs (with only 500 miles on them) look a little too black (powdery carbon
coating), but I don't know what they should look like in this type of car.
Because of my lack of good mileage (12mpg) could it just be a mix problem and
needs to be leaned out?
Sorry for asking possibly naive questions, but I am still waiting for some
manuals I ordered to arrive.
Regards,
Richard Blair, MCP
1973 TR6
:> Since I am rather new to British cars (and cars with Carbs to boot) I am
:> having
:> a bit of a problem diagnosing my 73 TR6's problem.
:>
:> It start perfectly when cold, no hesitation and starts in under a second.
:> However after driving for a bit and getting the engine warm it starts to be
:> very
:> hesitant (unresponsive to the throttle unless pumped and then floored, then
:> it
:> mellows out) and will stall if I don't force the idle to at least 1200 RPM.
:> If
:> I park it after a warm up drive (>10 Miles or 20 minutes) it won't start
:> until
:> the engine cools for at least an hour.
:
:Richard, IMO -carbs may not be the problem. An old rule which I try to follow
:is "Carbs last -- after everything else is eliminated". The reason we go for
:the carbs first is because they sit right there looking at us (and with those
:big air cleaners!). SU's and ZS's are simple devices really and are not prone
:to just "go out."
:
:Check your ignition system (points, condensor, coil etc.) and the other parts
:of the fuel system (pump, linkages etc.) before monkeying with the carbs
:themselves. Please let us know what you found after you find it. Cheers.
:
:Art Kelly
:
:
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