Bud Rolofson wrote:
> Just replaced the wheel bearings on my 6 last night. Right one was
> bad...discovered that when I had the front wheels balanced on the car. But I
> decided to replace both the right and left bearings. I figured the left one
> might be nearing the end of it's lifetime and in addition I'd have old but
> "good" set of inner and outer bearings to carry in the emergency parts bag.
> I assume you're talking about the dust covers on the front hubs. They don't
> have threads...they are a pull out push in fit.
> I was able to pull my dust covers with a pair of needle nose vise grips. I
> tried a lot of other methods previously when I'd had to replace a rotor and
> getting the dust cover off took more time than most of the rest of the job. I
> know needle nose vise grips is not a tool that everyone might have laying
> but regular vise grips might work too if you really clamp them down on the
> cover (don't be afraid to bend the dust cover in a little with the vise
> grips...I don't think it affects their function if they get a little
> long as it still fits back into the hub properly).
> Lock those grips on there and then gently lever it up and down while exerting
> some pull. The dust covers should work their way out.
> Good Luck
> 71TR6 CC57365
> 71TR6 CC65446
> ____________________Reply Separator____________________
> Subject: 74 TR6 - Front wheel bearings - cover
> Author: "G. Ganoung" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Date: 12/16/98 12:58 PM
> Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the covers over the
> bearings on the front wheels fo a TR6? I have likely stripped the
> threads on the hole that is intended to act as the way to extract the
> cap from the groove that it sits in.
> How about a big hammer and chisel?
Very interesting article in this months Model A restorer about wheel
bearings, and here is the authors quote, "there are many more front
bearings lost by improper maintenance, than by no maintenance". When
taking out the old bearings for repacking, they have worn their own track
between the Timken & the cup, so when replacing and adjusting, the
contact area between roller & cup will have been changed so that only a
line contact occurs instead of full face contact. The solution is to
return the bearing to their previous clearances as accurately as possible
even if it means having a very slight clearance