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RE: negative camber

To: "TRIUMPHS" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "HarvoC@aol. com" <HarvoC@aol.com>
Subject: RE: negative camber
From: "The Garrisons" <garrison@teleport.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 10:49:36 -0800charset="iso-8859-1"
Importance: Normal
Do check the rear trailing arm bushings; the original rubber ones will
deform quite badly after only a couple of years and cause quite a bit of
tilt.  If you go to replace them, I'd recommend the poly (plastic) bushings;
they'll last a lot longer.

- GeneG

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of AJ Turner
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 1999 6:54 PM
> To: TRIUMPHS
> Subject: Re: negative camber
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HarvoC@aol.com <HarvoC@aol.com>
> Date: Saturday, March 13, 1999 9:25 PM
> Subject: negative camber
>
>
> >
> >Does anyone dnow how excessive negative camber is corrected in the rear
> wheel
> >of a TR6?  Thank you.
>
>
> Hi Harvey, et al......
>
> That's an age-old problem with TR-6s!
> It's usually due to sagging or weak, broken-down springs in the rear.  The
> skocks (dampers) keep the wheels in contact with the road while
> the springs
> are there to "hold" the car at the correct ride height.  Many
> people replace
> them with uprated (racing/HD) springs but, often this also causes the rear
> to be too high.  Be sure to ask about that prior to buying them
> if that's a
> concern to you (I personally think TR-6s look terrible with the rear too
> high in comparison the the front).  I used to know the exact measurement
> from a solid, level surface to the inside-center of the rear
> wheel wells for
> a "normal" TR-6 but I've forgotten it.  I think it was 34 inches
> but I could
> be mistaken there?
> If you're replacing the springs, then you may as well replace the rubber
> "donuts" that the springs rest on (top and bottom).
> That should raise the rear to the appropriate ride-height but,
> depending on
> how ambitious you are, you may also want to do the whole rear
> suspension by
> replacing the rear trailing arm bushings as well as the links for
> the shocks
> (dampers).  Obviously, if you do the trailing arm bushings, you'll need to
> have the rear alignment re-set.
> Plus, while re-aligning the rear, it is possible to gain or lose alittle
> height depending on the number and thickness of the shims used where the
> trailing arms mount to the frame (actually between the brackets
> and frame).
>


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