-----Original Message-----
From: HarvoC@aol.com <HarvoC@aol.com>
Date: Saturday, March 13, 1999 9:25 PM
Subject: negative camber
>
>Does anyone dnow how excessive negative camber is corrected in the rear
wheel
>of a TR6? Thank you.
Hi Harvey, et al......
That's an age-old problem with TR-6s!
It's usually due to sagging or weak, broken-down springs in the rear. The
skocks (dampers) keep the wheels in contact with the road while the springs
are there to "hold" the car at the correct ride height. Many people replace
them with uprated (racing/HD) springs but, often this also causes the rear
to be too high. Be sure to ask about that prior to buying them if that's a
concern to you (I personally think TR-6s look terrible with the rear too
high in comparison the the front). I used to know the exact measurement
from a solid, level surface to the inside-center of the rear wheel wells for
a "normal" TR-6 but I've forgotten it. I think it was 34 inches but I could
be mistaken there?
If you're replacing the springs, then you may as well replace the rubber
"donuts" that the springs rest on (top and bottom).
That should raise the rear to the appropriate ride-height but, depending on
how ambitious you are, you may also want to do the whole rear suspension by
replacing the rear trailing arm bushings as well as the links for the shocks
(dampers). Obviously, if you do the trailing arm bushings, you'll need to
have the rear alignment re-set.
Plus, while re-aligning the rear, it is possible to gain or lose alittle
height depending on the number and thickness of the shims used where the
trailing arms mount to the frame (actually between the brackets and frame).
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