As well as fitting a 'sway' bar at the front, you can also fit
adjustable shockers, change all the rubber bushes in the suspension to
nylatron or something similar, and change all the springs (front and
rear) to a harder type. As I said in a previous note, with my 4 I
replaced the rear springs with standard (if there is such a thing)
springs, but otherwise left things alone, put on new shockers and
nylatron bushes at the front with new 'blue' springs plus a sway bar (I
think it must have been an Addco - it is definitely thicker than
standard) Ther were some notes a while ago about rear sway bars - I
think most of us agreed that they were OK for racers but not worth
fitting to road cars.
What I am considering doing is to change the camber angle from 1 ish
degree positive to 1 (or 2) degrees negative on the front suspension.
The positive camber was designed for crossply tyres, and radials really
need negative camber.
There are two ways of doing this on TR2-4 chassis - one is to cut the
upper wishbones and re weld them a little shorter (I have some spares
but have not yet got around to doing this) also you can fit some kind of
kit. I think that Revington TR in the UK sell an adjustable set up
for about 120 UK pounds - I am tempted to but one and fit it.
If you want to see what my car handles like when cornering - then look
at my website for the picture of me going around Castle Combe race
track last year.
Op wrote:
>
> Since I have just rescently joined the list, but have had a TR4 for over 12
> years I have a ton of various questions. Since this topic came up I decided
> to throw out this old question of mine. Before I put my TR4 away for storage
> (7 years ago last week) I used to have extreme!! understeer. I had new
> Remington (not the greatest tires, but good for normal use)205 60 15 tires
> on tr6 wheels mounted to it. The TR4 is 1964 (ct20347L) with no front or
> rear swaybar. I used to be able to at any speed above 30mph crank the wheel
> very hard, and get the car to go in a front wheel plow. eventually the car
> would turn, but it was always a source of fear for the unknowing occupant.
> Do other TR4s have this severe understeer problem? I have new springs I
> bought from moss(semi race) that I have not yet put in. I have heard a lot
> of horror stories about aftermarket springs. I really want to make my car
> into a super good handler. Anyone have any ideas on TR4 handling? I have a
> perverse fantasy of eventually doing 1.00G in a skidpad test with my TR4.
>
> Op
>
> **********************************************************
> Want to hear how insane I actually am?
> Then listen to comedy (attempts?) skits I have done and recorded to Real
> Audio format
> HTTP://hiddenmic.cjb.net/
>
> For a great article on 3.5 Litre BOP/Rover V8 info and pix of my TR4
> HTTP://alumv8.cjb.net/
>
> For a bit of Paranormal in Media
> HTTP://ufotv.cjb.net/
> **********************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Brian Johnson <b.johnson@diamond.co.uk>
> To: Tony Rhodes <ARhodes@compuserve.com>; Triumph list
> <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 22, 1999 8:51 AM
> Subject: Re: TR4A front spring packing pieces
>
> >
> >Tony
> >
> >I thought about using the road/rally springs on the rear of my TR4, but
> >after my experience with the TR2 (the first time around) when I bought
> >some 'half race' springs
> >because no others were available, when one on the TR2 was broken. What
> >this did was to give me severe oversteer - I could frighten even the
> >hardiest passenger, and several people would not come in the car. I got
> >used to it of course, but it was dangerous.
> >When I got the TR2 back three years ago I took off the springs and they
> >were the dished
> >variety. I think that they should have been the flattened type - there
> >was no information when I fitted them (1973) about what you could and
> >could not do with rear springs.
> >
> >I'm happy to say that by using the blue springs on the front of my TR4
> >and 'normal' but new rear springs (the dished type) plus a front
> >anti-roll bar (sway bar) I get fairly neutral handling and can only get
> >understeer in the wet when I am really trying (after the TR2 I prefer
> >oversteer - cos I know what to do about it !)
> >
> >The Moss tuning manual describes the rear spring selection for IRS cars
> >as a
> >'minefield' There are several options, and they say you should fit the
> >springs to the car and then take measurements to find if you have
> >achieved the desired effect. I suppose the problem is that if the
> >springs are not correct then you have to swap them somehow. I could
> >have a go at scanning the page if you like so that you can see what
> >springs are available. Its small print so it may be difficult but I can
> >have a try if my scanner will work (I've not used it for at least 3
> >months)
> >
> >Brian
> >
> >Tony Rhodes wrote:
> >>
> >> Message text written by INTERNET:b.johnson@diamond.co.uk
> >> >Yes I used the spacers - they are effectively around 1 1/2 inches
> >> thick. I have the same for my TR2 which is dismantled at the moment.
> >> If I get a chance tomorrow, I will measure one for you
> >> I have the Moss performance manual in front of me - there is no spacer
> >> in the TR4A diagram and the blue spring is part TT4006. The diagram
> >> for the TR2-4 shows the spacer (part #107682) and the same blue spring
> >> is used - it is called the ROAD-RALLY spring and rated at 390 pounds. <
> >>
> >> Brian,
> >>
> >> That is very interesting. Thank you. You used the spacers with the blue
> springs
> >> on the front. Did you use "road-rally" springs on the rear as well? I
> presume
> >> so. Did you need to use spacers in the rear to get the ride height you
> were
> >> looking for? Or did you have to use spacers in the front to bring it up
> to
> >> level with the rear?
> >>
> >> I presume that there is no difference in the overall height of the shock
> tower
> >> in the 4 vs 4A to eliminate the spacer in the 4A. It seems that the
> 11.1" stock
> >> spring was what eliminated the spacer for any 4/4A series car. The
> factory manual
> >> is quite murky on this....
> >>
> >> -Tony
--
Cheers
Brian Johnson (UK)
1963 TR4 AFP 503A (UK) / IZS 733(USA) - CT27216-L (now not L but O )
1954 TR2 46 BHX TS554-O UK Car in pieces
1989 Vauxhall Cavalier 2.0 GLI - Eurobox but it goes !
Internet b.johnson@lycosmail.com
New website http://websites.diamond.co.uk/~b.johnson/index.htm
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