>So...my questions:
>1) The car's interior is, for the most part, pretty nice. ...<SNIP>... To that
>end, I'd like to apply some vinyl/leather preservative or conditioner now. Is
>it just the seat faces that are leather? How do I tell if they are leather,
>since I think there are 100% vinyl kits available? And what product would
>you all recommend I use on the vinyl and on the leather?
Can't help you much hear. I didn't realize that any of the factory original
seats used leather. Both my TR3A and TR4A seats were all vinyl. It is possible
that they may have originally had leather which was replaced with vinyl at some
point, but I doubt it. I've always used Armor-All or STP protectants to keep
the vinyl from drying out and cracking.
>2) What have other people put the bodies on while they worked on the
>frame? From looking at it all, it seems I could just build a small
>wooden frame with 2x4 or 4x4 "rails" in roughly the same position as
>the frame rails and set the body down on it. Does this seem
>plausible? Or are there better ideas?
>And what kind of paint have people used to paint their frames? Black
>glossy enamel?
My first TR3A frame-off, I simple set the body on 4 jack stands. This later
proved to be a mistake because I had to remove the rocker sills (inner and
outer), and lining everything back up perfectly when I welded on the new sills
was difficult using jack stands.
I'm working on my second TR3A frame-off now, and after removing the fenders and
everything else that bolts on, I've found it very easy to work on the body with
it either flat on the floor or tipped up on either side. In this position,
replcaing floor or trunk panels is much easier. Just lay a pice of foam or a
thick blanker underneath so as not to scratch the metal. Some may argue with
this method, but it seems to be working fine. With everthing removed from the
body, I have no trouble moving it around by myself.
As far as frame paint, after stripping, I used an epoxy primer and black gloss
enamel on both frames.
>3) My car is not an overdrive model. I have read that I can find
>virtually any TR2-6 overdrive transmission and stick it in with no
>modification. True? I have also read that the rear-end gear ratio
>is different on overdrive models (4.1:1 versus 3.7:1 for non-OD).
>True? Suggestions on how to make that switch?
>Or, do you non-OD TR2 & 3 owners find that the overdrive really adds
>much? It added a lot to my Spit, but then it's got those little 13"
>wheels... And what's a realistic price to pay for an overdrive and
>transmission?
I don't know about the TR6, but the TR4A tranny and the TR3A tranny appear to
be identical from a mounting standpoint. A TR4A engine and tranny with O/D fit
just fine in my TR3A non O/D car with no modification. The factory equipped OD
cars came with the 4.1 gears in the rear end, the idea being that the car would
have a little more pulling power or pick-up. Since mine was not originally an
O/D car, it came with 3.7 gears in the rear-end, which I kept in it and really
like it. With these gears, the O/D reduces the RPMs on the highway and gives
you better gas mileage. It also gives you a little more top-end speed.
>4) What books, if any, would you recommend I purchase to guide me
>through this? I have the Haynes manual for my Spit, which proved
>invaluable. Is there one for the TR3? What else should I look to
>get?
All I have used in the past is the Haynes manual for Tr2/3/4.
>5) Anyone have any contact information for a British car club in the
>Des Moines, Iowa area? I used to belong to a club in Iowa City, but
>that's a long ways to go now -- and I know there's a club here, just
>not sure how to find them.
Can't help you there. Iowa is a long way from Michigan! Suggest checking the
VTR page. It gives links to area clubs.
Jeff Williamson
'58 TR3A
'60 TR3A
|