Last summer, I went thru the same thing. Once I figured it out, I wrote a
step-by-step instruction and posted it to the list. Re your question though,
here's an excerpt...
<Clamp one end of the Cross Link in a large vice and, using a suitably sized
socket (just a hair less that the diameter of the hole in the Cross Link)
and a large hammer (I used a 2lb, I think, hand sledge), force the steel
sleeve out of the hole. (You might not want to use your best socket - minor
denting, but not too bad).>
I suppose you could use the socket and some wood spacer blocks and press it
out with the vise, but the above worked for me. Using a hack saw would make
me real nervous. If you want to read the rest of my instructions...
http://www.listquest.com/lq/view.cgi?ln=triumphs&sp=11&q=silentblocs&b=1&o=0
&x=21&y=4&ci=c015212068&mid=74590
Good luck.
Michael Ferguson
----------
>From: "Allen, Warren" <Warren.Allen@infores.com>
>To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Help with TR3 Silentbloc bush
>Date: Sun, Feb 20, 2000, 6:17 PM
>
>
> Help!
>
> I'm working on my front end, and have removed the silentbloc holding the
> steering drop arm to the steering rod. Or, to be more specific, I've
> removed the center bolt and the rubber bush. But I can't remove the metal
> cylinder that used to form the outside part of the old silentbloc from the
> hole in the steering rod. I've tried making a puller with a large socket, a
> long bolt, a couple of nuts, and several appropriately-sized washers, but
> all I've done is bend the washers. Is this supposed to be hard to get out?
> Any ideas about what to do? While on the subject, how does the silentbloc
> work? It's a cylinder without a cap, so what keeps it from being pulled
> through the hole in the steering arm? Thanks for all your help.
>
> Warren Allen
> TS55177L
> Winston-Salem, NC
>
> If a monkey explodes, you get rhesus pieces
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