Ken-
A few things to check-
1. Make sure the Throttle linkage is returning smoothly and fully
to the idle stops.
If there is any tendency to hang up, this could affect the
idle level.
2 With the engine running, check for throttle shaft leakage.
A couple of short shots of starting ether right at the
shaft/carb body interface will tell you of an intake vacuum leak.
( engine speeds up) ((Very flammable, keep away from Generator
brushes..))
3. Make sure there are no other vacuum leaks- manifold
gaskets, etc...
4. There is always the possibility of sticking carb floats or a
gas supply problem, but
probably less likely...
5. If the car does not restart immediately, it might be a heat
soak problem, just to be sure, make sure the spark is still
OK. Sometimes ign. coils can become "thermal"
6. Make sure the fuel line from the pump to the carbs is not
too hot to touch. ISTR the line passes pretty close
top the #1 cyl exhaust manifold. Possible vapor lock??
Unfortunately, #2 is the most likely. Especially the front carb,
which is exposed to more road dirt and has more mechanical loading than the
rear one because of the linkage design.
Good luck!
Bob Westerdale
TS36967E
Ken Gano wrote:
After many months of "fitting bits" I can now get my TR3 to idle almost
every time. Problem is it will only run between 800 to 1000 rpm. Any less
and it dies, any more it dies. Odd part is that it will do fine for 1 to 2
minutes and then die unexpectedly.
Any idea where to start?
TIA
Ken Gano
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