> So you think that it is most likely something slipped inside the carbs,
>or on the rod outside the carbs that is attached to the choke lever. Does
>this sound right? I'll check right now...... 45 mins later, two
>beers and a friendly neighbourly chat...... I see the choke cables come
>down in two places, one for each carb. The front one is in contact with
the
>screw that is attached to the rod that goes through both carbs. The rear
>one has a fair amount of play in it before it comes in contact with said
>rod. I think this sounds like what you're describing. I ran it again and
>this time put vice grips on the choke cable to hold it while I checked the
>car out. For the first two minutes it idled nicely at 1000 RPM, then
>increased slightly. I let the choke out to halfway and it started to come
>down like it was drowning out. It stayed there again till I let the choke
>out all the way and then it died.
> I don't know how important any of this is, but you said there was
an
>adjustment that I could play with for the choke. Did you mean the ones
>where the cables come down and are supposed to contact that rod, or is it
on
>the rod somewhere? Or does this sound more like a gas quality problem?
> Do you know anything about hydraulics?
> Thanks again for the info. Without your and lists
help,
>this car wouldn't be running right about now.
Pete.
As Randall said, there is a clip on the side of the carb that holds the
cable casing to the carb and can be adjusted such that when the choke knob
is pushed in the choke cam is fully disengaged. You should be able to
release the clips by hand to check that the choke is fully off. Put the
clips back on. Now check to see if there is 1/64 clearance between the
adjustment screw head and the cam. If not, release the locking nut on the
adjustment screw and make the adjustment. Lock it down and check to see
that the choke fully enagages and disengages when you pull the choke cable
knob out and back in.
John Lumia - 76 TR6
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