Message text written by "Alan J. Harris"
>I'm new to the list (at a friend's suggestion) and have a problem with my
'69 TR6 which recently developed and driving me nuts. After rebuilding
engine about 18 months ago, car has been running fine until recently. Now
it starts up nicely but after traveling at elevated speeds (55-60 mph) for
a
few minutes, when I slow down (like to take the interstate off ramp) rpm's
decrease down below 800 and the car dies. It doesn't readily restart
either. What I've found, is if I pull out the choke before slowing down,
the car stays running, but is idling at over 2000 rpm. I'm stumped.
I don't know if the carbs are the originals. They have temperature
compensators, and needle valves that don't adjust. The distributor has no
vacuum advance, and the vacuum retard wasn't connected when I got the car 2
yrs ago.. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
<
Alan,
It could be your carbs are set too lean. You say you have non-adjustable
needles. Does this mean the jets in the carb body are not adjustable? If
so then the mixture adjustment in in the needle fixment to piston and you
buy a special tool to adjust it. Will it start easier if you pull out the
choke?
Another thing that might be going on is the lack of the vacuum retard is
not helping out. The vacuum retard is connected to a special port on the
carb that applys vacuum only at idle (so it doesn't effect performance or
economy). It serves to help stabilize idle speed. It does this by
advancing idle when the vacuum drops off (engine speed drops too low). If
you set your idle speed to 800 RPM without this connected your throttle
position will be more closed than if you set it to 800 RPM with it
connected and without the comensating action your idle will vary more -
possibly to the point that the engine dies under certain conditions.
Good luck
Dave Massey
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8
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