A few thoughts on this, if I may?
Someone suggested that the re-alignment of the door to ensure it
didn't require slamming was to apply the suggestions described in the
workshop manual - namely, loosening a raft of bolts and using timber
wedges to force the panels into new alignments. Nothing wrong with
that in principle except for the fact that the workshop manuals were
written *primarily* for STI's dealer network and could be bought from
dealers for use by enthusiastic amateurs. It would be sensible to
remember that the technical authors who wrote those manuals (unlike
Haynes and others) did not write them with the private owner in mind.
It was primarily with dealers with well-equipped(?) workshops
including either body alignment jigs or access to the data sheets
giving the necessary info. I don't think too many of us have those
facilities?
Having seen Herald bodies being assembled at the former body plant and
remembering the many body jigs that were used to ensure reasonable
panel alignment, the use of wedges to move body assemblies in relation
to one another just to get a door to shut is something I'd strenuously
seek to avoid. Do it by all means if you want to because its your car
but I feel this is the sledgehammer to crack a nut approach and the
resolution of the consequential problems these actions can cause is
not for the faint-hearted.
Graham Stretch proposed (IMHO) a far more plausible and reasonable
method of attack which clearly has worked for him. FWIW, Herald door
fit, locking, anti-burst aspects were perennial problems when the car
was new because of the nature of the body construction/structure.
These were (largely) solved by factory or dealer using a baulk of
timber to align the door on loosened hinge bolts, paying later
attention to the lock itself and the striker plate. The general fit of
the doors on all cars was pretty appalling at the best of times, while
the inevitable chassis weave on saloons and especially on convertibles
was a fact of life. Anyone who has tried to line up the overcentre
locks to the screen top rail on a convertible after a period of top
down use will know what I mean! It'll get worse still if the body
position is shifted on the chassis. The key issue here is obviously to
get the door to stay shut at all times and to close it in such a way
that it doesn't require brute force or sound like the lid going on the
trash can.
If I had this problem, I'd fully remove the door, replace both hinge
pins, remount and then fiddle with a timber and lock/strker plate to
achieve what Graham has reported.
It can be done.
The bottom line has to be that the Herald body by its very nature was
a sloppy fit and it was *engineered* that way to reduce its
manufacturing cost. In the early days it achieved that objective but
entirely failed to recognise the level of warranty claims that came
about at a later for poor panel fit and water leaks.
Jonmac
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