Just thought of a couple of more points -
a) You will have to get that piston out of there, even if you don't re-use
it, because you must recover the connecting rod. First I would continue
with the PB Blaster and patience, day after day, for a week or two.
b) You could also try a propane torch. Heat up the piston from the top as
much as you think is right, and upon shrinking again it may break free. It
may take a few cycles but is easy enough to try. Even though heating the
piston sounds backwards it's generally a lot simpler than trying to cool it
with dry ice or something esoteric like that.
c) Again once the crank is out, the hammer with the block of wood trick
might work on the piston (from above) but I would first do a) and b) to
give it whatever head start they might offer, and in case they work. For
this I would be very careful to either get a chunk of wood just the right
size, or else be psychologically prepared to sacrifice the piston.
Regards,
Jim
>To: ko3@columbia.edu
>From: a Wallace <wallaces@superaje.com>
>
>Kevin,
>If you really get stuck I have a set of 83 mm liners with wear that can be
>taken up to 86 mm (but not 87, due to wall thickness), or so it's claimed.
>Despite what you hear on the list that "any good motorcycle shop can bore
>it out", good luck finding such a place! The sleeve needs to be mounted in
>the block i.e. aligned with the crank journals when it's bored. Then it
>seems like any other block to a regular automotive machine shop.
>Maybe you can take your 86 mm sleeves up to 87 and get away with just a
>set of pistons and rings, but by the time you do that...my bet is that you
>will end up going for a new set of pistons and sleeves. It's hard to
>swallow but then you're starting with a known good situation...try British
>Parts Northwest for about the best pricing around - www.bpnorthwest.com.
>They are also certainly the best bet for a full engine gasket set.
>Whichever way you go, you will need to replace the gaskets under the
>sleeves. To get my sleeves out I laid the block on its side and (with the
>crank removed) used a chunk of hardwood against the bottom of the sleeve
>and pounded the daylights out of it with a hand sledge.
>Those rust holes in the head - are they slightly curved? They may just be
>water passages. Take a look at the head gasket. On my car those holes are
>just as they were cast, with no finishing, so they look pretty rough, and
>initially I thought I had big problems. I hope that's all they are.
>Let me know if you want my worn out 83 mm sleeves. No rush, they aren't
>going anywhere.
>Regards,
>Jim
>
>......found that the number four cylinder (rear) and liner appeared
>considerably more rusted and frozen than the other three, whose walls were
>clean, and pistons had black tarnish. In contrast the rear cylinder was
>filled with oil and rust particles, whereas the others had drained the oil
>past the rings and didn't contain extensive accumulations of rust and
>debris.......another problem I noticed is that the head appears to have
>rusted through rather close to each combustion chamber on one side in a
>small oblong hole approx 1 inch by 1/4 inch.
>So my questions to the list are:
>1.) What's up with the rust holes in the head?
>2.) Can I replace just one cylinder and liner, and if so does anyone have
>a used set of 86 mm that they would part with for an agreed upon sum?
>3.) Am I missing anything important here?
>- -Kevin
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