RE: Tie Rod End Piece - TR4Jeff (and everyone else that offered assistance),
Well... I got 'em out with no damage at all. I ended up just tapping them out
with a hammer (not even a BFH <grin>). It took several "taps"... like around
20 per side, but they eventually broke free. The threaded studs don't seem
damaged at all.
But... one of the rubber gaiters was indeed ripped. I just couldn't see the
rip with all the grease while it was mounted. I don't think these are
available by themselves, and as long as I have the things out, I suppose I'll
just go ahead and replace them.
As far as "ball-parking" the toe-in... I had made measurements prior to
disconnecting the tie rods (I did that earlier as I am also replacing the
rubber boots on the inner tie rod ball joints), but I doubt my car was set up
properly to begin with. I don't suppose there is an easy "home-brew" way to
check the toe-in setting is there?
Thanks again (everyone) for all your help. My car is actually in the same
room (my basement) as my computer, so it's very easy (and tempting) for me to
try out advice as soon as I receive it. This list is a fantastic resource!
Kurtis J.
1963 TR4
----- Original Message -----
From: Pharr, Jeff
To: 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Cc: 'Kurtis'
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 7:11 PM
Subject: RE: Tie Rod End Piece - TR4
Kurtis,
If you are going to replace the tie rod end (the correct decision, IMO) then
the easiest way to remove it is to use the pickle fork tool described in an
earlier post. Even with the pickle fork you will still need to use your BFH
to really whack away to break it loose. Pickle forks can usually be rented at
local auto parts shops, or if you are in the Northern VA area, I'd be happy to
loan you mine. Note: they do come in several sizes, so if you rent or buy,
make sure the one you get is not way oversized.
Before you remove ball joint end:
1. measure the length to from the ball joint end to a convenient point on
the tie rod that will be staying on the car. This will allow you to
'ball-park' the toe-in setting when you install the new tie rod end.
2. loosen the locking nut on the adjusting end of the rod. These are
typically all buggered up from the DPO's use of vice-grips to try and break it
loose. It is a lot easier to break these loose when the tie rod is not
flopping all over the place.
Installing the new joint is a piece of cake. 9 times out of 10, the act of
tightening the nut will easily pull it into place. (Don't re-use the old
nut!) That 10th time, you will find that as you torque the nut, the ball just
spins in its socket. If this happens to you, you will need to apply enough
pressure on the top of the joint to get it to seat well enough to finish
tightening the nut. 2X4 wedged into place, tap on the back of the joint with
a nylon hammer, big pliers, whatever works for you. This is probably not the
time to use the BFH ;-)
--Jeff
'65 TR4A
And some other non-British stuff...
-----Original Message-----
From: Kurtis [mailto:kurtisj@cox-internet.com]
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 11:59 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: Re: Tie Rod End Piece - TR4
Okay... so I guess my next question would be: How hard are they to get back
on? Do you basically have to hammer them back on as well?
I'll probably just go ahead and order a new set... I figured by looking at
them that I could probably pry them off with something (at the expense of
the boot). I guess my biggest concern at this point is potential damage to
the tie rod lever. I'll try the "two-big-hammer" approach you suggested.
Thanks for the info BTW.
Kurtis J.
1963 TR4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Young" <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 6:34 PM
Subject: RE: Tie Rod End Piece - TR4
> Kurtis :
>
> They are indeed hard to get off, especially without hurting anything. You
> can bang them out usually, but at least half the time it renders the tie
rod
> end unfit for further service. (The secret is to use two big hammers, one
> to 'back up' the steering arm, the other to hit the stud full force.)
>
> There is a common tool, sometimes called a 'pickle fork', that works
better,
> but it still almost always ruins the boot, and sometimes damages the tie
rod
> end.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38649
>
> There are several less common tie rod separator tools that should work
> better, like the one at
> http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/product1918.html
> but I haven't had an occasion to use it yet <g>
>
> Randall
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