> While it is out I was thinking of doing
>so worth while modifications. My engine has 12:1 compression and a
>road/rally cam. It also has 88mm pistons and liners. The rest is pretty much
>stock.
> The parts I'm contemplating are- Headers, electronic ignition, oil
>cooler, porting the intake, removing the fan (because I already have a
>electric fan installed) Doing some work on the SU's or put on TR6
>carbs.(heard they work better)
>Q. Does anyone run any of the other mods and have recommendations?
>What differences can I expect?
The very first thing you should probably do is check over the crank for
cracks and if it is good have it nitrided for additional strength. Add
the harmonic dampener to help tame the big harmonic just above 5000 RPM.
If the harmonic dampener is added & the crank is nitrided your bottom end
will be a lot stronger for the 5000 - 6000 RPM range.
Hopefully you already removed the combustion chaimber shrouding that is
around the intake valve & plug. That's a power biggie.
You should have the TR4A valves for better valve pocket flow. You might
consider going to to an oversize exhaust valve since exhaust is normally
the limiting factor to TR3-4 head breathing.
If you have not already, you should replace a lot of the stock internal
engine fasteners with stronger ones.
An Aluminum flywheel and carillo rods will help the engine rev quicker. A
reworked TR6 clutch will work better than the TR3 clutch. But today's
clutch materials available on stock TR clutch disks tends to come apart
over 6000 RPM. So a scatter shield could come in handy if you don't have
a rev limiter.
Those are the first things that come to mind.
Oh and a set of strombergs looks non stock so if you are not running in a
prepared stock auto cross class you would be just by going from SUs to
the Stombergs. Don't sell your SU's short.
>Mike Thompson
>59 Triumph TR3A
>71 Land Rover Series 2
TeriAnn Wakeman
'61 TR3A
'60 Land Rover Series II 109
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