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Re: Identifying TR3-4 trannies

To: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>, <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: Identifying TR3-4 trannies
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2004 09:10:58 -0700
References: <NOEDJDCNFBCNELMBFNFEEEFFHEAA.tr3driver@comcast.net>
Thanks a million Randall,  I really appreciate your help, makes me feel a
lot more confident about the results.
Two more questions.  The friend that gave me this transmission has a TR4
with an OD but his OD has only one switch on the top plate. From the
description below, I would assume the this design was intended to be OD in
4th only. Randall mentioned something about converting a top plate; can this
top plate be easily modified to have both 2nd/3rd and 4th gear switches? If
so, could I start with the one off my crash box so as not to risk the one he
has on now?

My friend suspects that the place that overhauled his OD substituted an old
clutch assembly for the brand new one he gave them for the job and he is not
real confident about the life of this part.  Do these go bad over time?
They are not available from Moss, are they hard to get?

Thanks again!
Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From "Randall" <tr3driver at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2004 1:15 AM
Subject: RE: Identifying TR3-4 trannies


> >  What exactly is the function of the lockout switches? Do they prevent
the
> > OD from being engaged if the trans is not in one of those gears?
>
> Yes, exactly.  The shaft speed is too low and the torque too great for
> reliable OD operation in 1st gear (although some racers have modified to
> eliminate this restriction).  The biggest concern is reverse, since if the
> OD engages in reverse, it will tear up the sprag clutch (and probably the
> tail housing with it).
>
> > Does either
> > the 2nd gear lockout switch or the 3rd & 4th gear lockout have to
> > be closed
> > for the OD to engage?
>
> Right again.  The two switches are wired in parallel, so either one being
> closed will allow the relay to operate.
>
> >  Replacing the front cover sounds like a good idea.
>
> I'd replace the seal, then, since it will be riding on a different shaft,
> and pulling an old, hardened seal over the splines may damage it anyway.
> Cheap insurance.
>
> > I will be happy to trade the dipstick for the OD.  Why would I want to
> > rebuild the TR3 top cover? Why not use the one from the 4A?
>
> Only reason I suggested it was to retain the dipstick.  The 4A cover won't
> have the hole finished in the casting for it (although it's the same
> casting).
>
> > I'll add them to my shopping list. While I'm in there (ok, here comes
> > shipwright's) I plan to replace teh clutch, pressure plate, throw out
> > bearing and ring gear. I know there has been a lot of email about
various
> > brands, but I am not racing this car and I like an easy clutch, will I
run
> > into any problems going with the Moss kit, the Borg and Beck?
>
> Frankly, unless you know of a problem with it, I'd keep the old pressure
> plate.  My original one lasted almost 300,000 miles, and I only changed it
> because I went to a lightweight flywheel that was drilled for the later
> pressure plate.
>
> But I don't know of any problems with the replacement B&B early pressure
> plates either.
>
> Randall

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