> What exactly is the function of the lockout switches? Do they prevent the
> OD from being engaged if the trans is not in one of those gears?
Yes, exactly. The shaft speed is too low and the torque too great for
reliable OD operation in 1st gear (although some racers have modified to
eliminate this restriction). The biggest concern is reverse, since if the
OD engages in reverse, it will tear up the sprag clutch (and probably the
tail housing with it).
> Does either
> the 2nd gear lockout switch or the 3rd & 4th gear lockout have to
> be closed
> for the OD to engage?
Right again. The two switches are wired in parallel, so either one being
closed will allow the relay to operate.
> Replacing the front cover sounds like a good idea.
I'd replace the seal, then, since it will be riding on a different shaft,
and pulling an old, hardened seal over the splines may damage it anyway.
Cheap insurance.
> I will be happy to trade the dipstick for the OD. Why would I want to
> rebuild the TR3 top cover? Why not use the one from the 4A?
Only reason I suggested it was to retain the dipstick. The 4A cover won't
have the hole finished in the casting for it (although it's the same
casting).
> I'll add them to my shopping list. While I'm in there (ok, here comes
> shipwright's) I plan to replace teh clutch, pressure plate, throw out
> bearing and ring gear. I know there has been a lot of email about various
> brands, but I am not racing this car and I like an easy clutch, will I run
> into any problems going with the Moss kit, the Borg and Beck?
Frankly, unless you know of a problem with it, I'd keep the old pressure
plate. My original one lasted almost 300,000 miles, and I only changed it
because I went to a lightweight flywheel that was drilled for the later
pressure plate.
But I don't know of any problems with the replacement B&B early pressure
plates either.
Randall
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