Eric,
I have owned 3s and 4s for over 40 years and have never heard or seen this!
The only problem I have had is sticking floats and valves.
But what could have caused all those fractures?
I would not apply a solder iron, may explode!
Look for some on ebay. There are always SU carbs for sale. I got a pair about
a year ago just for spares. Paid about 20 $ plus postage.
If you do manage to solder then, wont that affect the bouyancy?
Bob Labuz
1958 TR3A
1963 TR4
1974 T140V
1998 T-Bird T-3
> List,
>
> It's been a while. I've been busy with other things and now I'm about
> 2,500 messages behind. :-(
>
> Anyway, I had the opportunity to take out my TR3A today. It ran great, but
> soon started to reek of fuel. Upon opening the bonnet, I noticed a stream
> of fuel coming from the overflow tube on the front H6 carb, which turned
> out to be caused by a leaking brass float. Here are some pictures:
>
> http://www.xs4all.nl/~ekieboom/float/
>
> As you can see, it's full of hairline cracks. There are at least a dozen
> all along its circumfence and two of them go right across the joint.
>
> A therapeutic session with a hairdryer leaves me with an empty, but still
> leaky float. So here are the questions:
>
> Is it common for floats to fail like this?
>
> Could I have any luck soldering all those cracks up? I have a big 250W
> electric iron with which I've managed to fix a steel fuel tank in the
> past, but I'm no soldering artist. Perhaps heat it up a bit and roll it in
> a bath of solder? I dunno - I'd be very grateful for any ideas from those
> that have been there and done that.
>
> Eric
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