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RE: [TR] Do Rotors Really Fail?

To: <MMoore8425@aol.com>, <foxtrapper@ispwest.com>,
Subject: RE: [TR] Do Rotors Really Fail?
From: "rgt2" <rgt2@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 16:01:34 -0700
I have also had a rotor, not in a TR, fail.  It would run great with no
load, but as soon as a load was placed on the engine is would run just
terrible.  Once the rotor was replaced all was well.  On inspecting the
rotor under a magnifying glass you could just make out a track that ran to
the outside edge of the rotor so that under load the engine was putting
spark to the plug just in front of the one that it should have.

Rod Trunnell

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of MMoore8425@aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2006 3:17 PM
To: foxtrapper@ispwest.com; 75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org;
triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Do Rotors Really Fail?


In a message dated 7/14/2006 10:03:31 AM Pacific Standard Time,
foxtrapper@ispwest.com writes:

Rotors  don't wear out and need replacing nearly as often as parts
manufacturers  would have you believe.  While I've had rotors fail
mechanically,  that is actually quite rare.

You get a couple of things going on under  the distributor cap that cause
the
rotor, and cap, to wear out.

The  rotor spins against the carbon button in the center of the cap.  This
produces carbon dust that coats everything.  That promotes arcing to  ground
and not the plugs.  Once this starts, usually called carbon  tracking, it's
remarkably difficult to stop it.  The carbon tracks  get embedded into the
plastic and wiping doesn't remove them.

As  the spark jumps across the small gap between the rotor and the cap lug
it

produces an arc and blasts a little bit of the metal off.  Make it a  soft
metal like many cheap caps use, and you can really wear things away  after a
few million arcings.  Now you've got a great big gap instead  of a small
gap.
Which promotes misfiring.  The metal blasted off by  the arc is usually
vaporized and gets to redeposit itself inside the cap  just like the above
carbon does.  Again, promoting arcing to ground  and such.

While it would sound like you could clean up the rotor and  just replace the
cap, that will generally wear out the carbon contact  button in the center
of
the cap in short order.  The rotor gets worn  from the previous carbon
button, and doesn't match up well with the new  one, and grinds it down.
Sorta like putting new brake shoes on nasty brake  drums, the shoes wear out
quickly as a result.

Wipe down the inside  of the rotor and cap to prevent carbon arcing from
every occurring.   Dress the contact points on the rotor and the cap.  Do
that and you  can add many years to the life of the  components.




The Jaguar group has had a lot of failures of newly maufactured  rotors.
There seems to be a manufacturing problem. I think it has to do with  arcing
through the plastic to the distributor shaft.

Best, Mike Moore


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