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RE: [TR] Two TR3A Questions

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] Two TR3A Questions
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 17:17:16 -0700
> Question 1:  Am installing the tenax fasteners.  The wood screw
> type go along
> the doors.  But they also go above the dash for the tonneau
> cover, right?  Is
> there wood under the dash there?

On a 59, those shouldn't be Tenax fasteners, they should be "lift the dot".
As I recall, early bodies have wood under there, late bodies don't.  On the
late bodies, I think the studs just screwed into the sheet metal.

> Question 2:  How does one test the voltage stabilizer for the gauges?

Normally, a TR3A would not have a voltage stabilizer.  Only two gauges are
electrically operated; the ammeter operates only on current; and the fuel
gauge is a special "balanced" design that is relatively unaffected by supply
voltage.  A standard TR3A fuel gauge will not be happy with a TR4-6 type
voltage "stabilizer", since the output of the stabilizer jumps between
battery voltage and no voltage at all; and the early gauge is fast enough to
indicate empty when the voltage goes away.

However, assuming you've installed some later type gauges that do need a
stabilizer, my suggestion would be to just connect a test lamp from the
stabilizer output to ground (or even across one of the senders).  You should
be able to see the test lamp blink on and off, as the output swings between
battery voltage and 0.  If it does that, it's probably OK.

There is a TSB that talks about building a test circuit by using a temp
gauge from a TR4 or Spitfire, a 12v 2.2 watt bulb, and a "known good" 10v
source to calibrate the gauge, but IMO this is overkill.

Randall


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