Hi Steve-
Here's a couple of thoughts, assuming the TR6 has similar philosophy, if not
actual parts, from the TR4/4A:
> Basically, it disengages too close to the floor and really it does not
> disengage enough. When things get hot, the problem only gets worse to the
> point where I really can't shift gears. When I rebuilt the car I replaced
> the throwout bearing and carrier along with the roll pins and the
cross-shaft bushings.
The factory manual for the TR4A belleville spring specifies maximum travel
is 0.27/0.29 inch, so you're looking for a fairly small gremlin.
You didn't mention the length of the pushrod. On the TR4A, it's variable,
which is the primary method of adjusting the clutch. If it's short, you'd
get lots of pedal travel before you feel resistance, and the clutch wouldn't
engage. The adjustment is, and I quote:
"Slacken the nut and unscrew the pushrod until all clearance between the
pusrod and the cupped end of the operating piston (inside the slave
cylinder) is taken up. Adjust the position of the locknut until a feeler
gauge of 0.1-inch thickness may be inserted between the locknut face and the
clevis fork. Without disturbing the locknut on the pushrod, screw the
pushrod into the clevis until the nut contacts the clevis face, then lock up
the nut."
I have a collected a number of pushrods from TR4's; they are different
lengths. You've replaced a bunch of parts in the system, maybe you simply
need a longer pushrod.
>It has a new M/C and I rebuilt the slave cylinder.
If the new master cylinder bore diameter is smaller than original, you'll
have to push the pedal farther to get an equivalent amount of fluid to the
slave cylinder. I seem to remember having to choose between bores when I
replaced the unit on my TVR, which uses the TR6 model. Check the bore. If
you have the part number it may tell you, and you might be able to avoid
disassembly and bleeding again by calling your supplier.
> I have bled the thing to death but I always wonder if I got all of the a
ir
> out as the bend in the pipe is above the fluid level of the M/C.
Look at the pushrod travel. You should have an instinctive idea of what's
reasonable just by watching it while someone else pushes the clutch pedal.
Someone from the TR6 camp may have some specs on it.
Best,
Skip
64 TR4, 66 TR4A, 67 TR4A, 70 TVR (with TR6 m/c)
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