Others more smart then I will probably give you some troubleshooting tips
but one of the many advantages of Dan's Maintenance Handbook is the step by
step troubleshooting procedures he supplies for most every electrical
problem you'll encounter.
Also, I documented on my web site my experience with installing his wire
harness and, if I can do it, anybody can. It appears overwhelming at first
but it's really pretty simple. I haven't had any electrical gremlins since
completing it over 2 years ago.
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
From: owner-triumphs@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs@Autox.Team.Net]
On Behalf Of email@example.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:21 PM
Subject: [TR] '74 TR6 Starting woes
Hello, listers, I posted this on another web site as well, for the brains
here to ruminate upon:
I've spent all weekend trying to get my new-to-me '6 to start. Here'a a
The car has started in the past. Sometimes it would start easily, sometimes
jiggling the key would be needed. The back of the ignition switch was
physically separating; one of the three metal tangs had disintegrated, so I
ordered the electrical part of the switch from Moss, TRF was out. Relatively
new battery, charged and connections cleaned.
Further investigation revealed a burnt white-pink wire in the car side of
the electrical switch, all through the wiring loom, and dead ending by where
the radio would have been. This is the power wire for the radio. I couldn't
see much more damage to the wiring, except for that wire; I carefully
removed the plastic wrap from around the loom, cleared as much of the burnt
wiring as I could, and didn't hook up anything to that position in the
ignition switch connector.
Needless to say, the car won't start... all I get is the red ignition light
on. Blowing up Dan Master's nice color PDF wiring diagram, (11x17, $6.50 at
Kinkos!), I checked solenoid wiring, coil wiring, etc.
and I have continuity.
I next began to suspect the switch itself, again. Page 559 of the Bentley
shows electrical connections when the key is in it's various positions. On
the key position III, I can't get continuity from 2-1, or 3-1, on the back
of the electrical switch, in those positions.
So, what's next? Do I have a bad electrical part from Moss? Could the
mechanical part of the switch be bad? ( I don't see how). Of course, the
unknown wiring problems don't help any; has any other wire been
burned/broken I don't know about. Is there a wiring work around I can do
just to start the car... (I haven't tackled carbueration, changing hoses,
rebuilding fuel filter, etc. yet. ) Would Dan Master's Electrical Bible help
me any here, and, if need be, how horrible is putting in a new wiring
harness... Thanks for any and all suggestions, I'm thoroughly disgusted
Since then, 2 suggestions have been the Seat Belt Module, (where and what is
that?; I see it on the wiring diagram, not the car), and/or the Starter
relay, which another '6 owner has replaced w/ a headlight relay. Thought,
Best, Kevin Browne
'59 TR3A #TS58370L
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