Jack,
My bump stop dishes do not perfectly align with the bump stops, including all
the original shims
My car has had no frame damage, and I think the shims are all original to the
car.
I did/do have trouble with clearance on the trailing arms. On the first one,
drivers side (left), I had only a little interference and a little dremel
carbide burr grinding did the job
The other side was/is a bit of a problem. The original installation of the 6
studs was a bit off. You can see that the bottom stud is well centered, but
all the rest are slightly out of position, the circle is pivoted on that bottom
stud by a little bit to the right. This makes the left-most 2 studs
excessively close to the inside edge (slight perforation of the inner thin wall
when drilling for keenserts)
And it further reduces clearance on the right side by maybe 0.060". This means
there is a LOT of interference. I
I thought I had everything just barely clearing on the bench. I had the hub
bolted very snugly and no palpable or audible interference was present.
Mechanics blue showed no touching
So I installed the axle and trailing arm which is a pain in the neck because
the axle limits downward excursion. I got it all hooked up and all torqued
except the 250ft-lb 1.25" nut. As I then turned the axle, I could just barely
hear and feel some interference! Then it went away, but if I shoved hard on
the hub, and twisted I could gets one real grinding. So I took off the TA
again and I need to hit it with a real die grinder tomorrow.
I only need to remove a little more metal, but I will put some tape on the
highest parts,: the clip and, oddly, the edge closest to the wheel. The tape
will make sure I have enough clearance, more than just a thousandth. I don't
want to remove much metal, but I going to shoot for about 0.010 (3 thicknesses
of masking tape?)
I will need to be removing some metal from nearly 180 degrees to clear the
clip, but only at the 3:00 position is it a significant amount.
-Tony
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 11, 2015, at 6:19 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com> wrote:
> Tony -
>
> I am also installing GoodParts CV jointed axles on a IRS TR4A at the moment
> and I found the same thing - I think there were 5 shims behind every bracket,
> plus a couple of non-original smaller shims that must have been added at some
> point for alignment. I have remounted the trailing arms with no shims (for
> now) thinking I'd let the alignment shop sort out how many should be where,
> but I have noticed the bump stop dish on the trailing arm on one side no
> longer lines up with the bump stop on the body.
> I haven't looked into that any further because I am distracted by a more
> immediate problem:
> The outer CV joint boot and boot clip are making contact with the trailing
> arm - I've never had this problem on the many TR6s I've done this to - so I
> measured and found the tunnel in the TR4A trailing to be smaller than any of
> the TR6 trailing arms I have on hand - hard to quantify how much since these
> tunnels taper, but looks like the TR4a trailing arm tunnels are a little over
> 0.1 inch smaller in internal diameter. Have you encountered this?
> As an aside, there are quite a few subtle differences between the TR4a
> trailing arms and TR6 trailing arms - and the quality of casting looks better
> with the TR4 trailing arms - the quality of casting got better during the TR6
> model run, but these TR4 arms make early TR6 trailing arms look crude by
> comparison.
>
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc
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