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Re: [TR] Tach needle (TR3)

To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tach needle (TR3)
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 04 May 2015 01:08:48 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <007f01d085e4$3e1ab600$ba502200$@uprichard.net>
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Red letter day for me as well.  I took a 143 mile (round trip) drive in my
'3.  First trip really outside of the neighborhood.   Total miles about 350
(speedometer not hooked up part of the time - it now reads 248). 

 

Anyway - I am having the same nagging issue with the tach.  Under load it
travels fairly smooth but at idle or constant speed it bounces about 250-300
rpm in either direction of what it should be.   Before installing I measured
the part of the cable protruding and it was 11/32" which was within the
specs I was told by Morris who rebuilt the unit.  (5/16-3/8")

 

I didn't check the other end at the diz - is there a similar issue?  

 

The other issues I am having are:

The prop rod rattle others have talked about.   Going to change out the
fasteners at the pivot point and see what happens. I had used a pinjoint,
washer and cotter pin so it is real loose.  Will drive a bit without the rod
in place to make sure that is the rattle.

 

Still have a 'dead' fuel gauge.  It reads ok out of the car in a test
environment so there must be an issue with wiring.  I do not want to take
the instrument cluster out (again for the fourth time) - next weekend I will
take the cubby box back out so that I have access to do some continuity
probes.  

 

The steering seems to bind a bit sometimes.  I used the TR4 bushings so that
may be the problem.   It isn't critical and I am going to see if it loosens
up with more use.   Also thinking about putting some white lube or graphite
down the column.  Speaking of steering - the auto-cancel doesn't work on the
turn signals.  Is there a 'how to' out there somewhere to troubleshoot
that..

 

It was a great day for a long drive here in Tampa area.  Low 80's - humidity
in the 60's.  (not the normal 80/80)

 

 

 

Carl

 

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/  - Verizon has discontinued the mysite
URL.  Looking for a new home.

Tampa, FL

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew
Uprichard
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2015 5:01 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tach needle (TR3)

 

I have just put 100 miles on my newly-restored '57 small-mouth and am
working through the usual "teething" problems:  leaks, oil pressure
adjustment, electrical glitches, etc.  One thing I cannot work out is that
the needle on the tach swings about quite a bit:  it's ok at steady rpm, but
gear changes cause marked fluctuations.

 

I had the gauge rebuilt by Nisonger and I have a new cable.  Any thoughts
why this should be so?

Andrew


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Red letter day for me as well.&nbsp; I took a =
143 mile (round trip) drive in my &#8216;3.&nbsp; First trip really =
outside of the neighborhood.&nbsp;&nbsp; Total miles about 350 =
(speedometer not hooked up part of the time &#8211; it now reads 248). =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Anyway &#8211; I am =
having the same nagging issue with the tach.&nbsp; Under load it travels =
fairly smooth but at idle or constant speed it bounces about 250-300 rpm =
in either direction of what it should be.&nbsp;&nbsp; Before installing =
I measured the part of the cable protruding and it was 11/32&#8221; =
which was within the specs I was told by Morris who rebuilt the =
unit.&nbsp; (5/16-3/8&#8221;)<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I didn&#8217;t check the =
other end at the diz &#8211; is there a similar issue?&nbsp; =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>The other issues I am =
having are:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>The prop rod rattle others have talked =
about.&nbsp;&nbsp; Going to change out the fasteners at the pivot point =
and see what happens. I had used a pinjoint, washer and cotter pin so it =
is real loose. &nbsp;Will drive a bit without the rod in place to make =
sure that is the rattle.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Still have a =
&#8216;dead&#8217; fuel gauge.&nbsp; It reads ok out of the car in a =
test environment so there must be an issue with wiring.&nbsp; I do not =
want to take the instrument cluster out (again for the fourth time) =
&#8211; next weekend I will take the cubby box back out so that I have =
access to do some continuity probes.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>The steering seems to =
bind a bit sometimes.&nbsp; I used the TR4 bushings so that may be the =
problem.&nbsp;&nbsp; It isn&#8217;t critical and I am going to see if it =
loosens up with more use.&nbsp;&nbsp; Also thinking about putting some =
white lube or graphite down the column.&nbsp; Speaking of steering =
&#8211; the auto-cancel doesn&#8217;t work on the turn signals.&nbsp; Is =
there a &#8216;how to&#8217; out there somewhere to troubleshoot =
that&#8230;.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>It was a great day for a =
long drive here in Tampa area.&nbsp; Low 80&#8217;s &#8211; humidity in =
the 60&#8217;s.&nbsp; (not the normal 80/80)<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Carl<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Carl<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>1961 Triumph TR3A =
&#8211; TS81802LO<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/&nbsp; - =
Verizon has discontinued the mysite URL.&nbsp; Looking for a new =
home.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Tampa, FL<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Andrew Uprichard<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, May 03, 2015 5:01 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] Tach =
needle (TR3)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I have just =
put 100 miles on my newly-restored &#8217;57 small-mouth and am working =
through the usual &#8220;teething&#8221; problems:&nbsp; leaks, oil =
pressure adjustment, electrical glitches, etc.&nbsp; One thing I cannot =
work out is that the needle on the tach swings about quite a bit:&nbsp; =
it&#8217;s ok at steady rpm, but gear changes cause marked =
fluctuations.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I had the gauge rebuilt by Nisonger and I have a new =
cable.&nbsp; Any thoughts why this should be =
so?<br><br>Andrew<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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