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The fuel gauge was dead in my car too until I remembered the gauge must be
grounded. Ran a wire from the nut on the bracket to the common ground on
the center cluster and it works fine.
Andrew
From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net]
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 1:09 AM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Tach needle (TR3)
Red letter day for me as well. I took a 143 mile (round trip) drive in my
'3. First trip really outside of the neighborhood. Total miles about 350
(speedometer not hooked up part of the time - it now reads 248).
Anyway - I am having the same nagging issue with the tach. Under load it
travels fairly smooth but at idle or constant speed it bounces about 250-300
rpm in either direction of what it should be. Before installing I measured
the part of the cable protruding and it was 11/32" which was within the
specs I was told by Morris who rebuilt the unit. (5/16-3/8")
I didn't check the other end at the diz - is there a similar issue?
The other issues I am having are:
The prop rod rattle others have talked about. Going to change out the
fasteners at the pivot point and see what happens. I had used a pinjoint,
washer and cotter pin so it is real loose. Will drive a bit without the rod
in place to make sure that is the rattle.
Still have a 'dead' fuel gauge. It reads ok out of the car in a test
environment so there must be an issue with wiring. I do not want to take
the instrument cluster out (again for the fourth time) - next weekend I will
take the cubby box back out so that I have access to do some continuity
probes.
The steering seems to bind a bit sometimes. I used the TR4 bushings so that
may be the problem. It isn't critical and I am going to see if it loosens
up with more use. Also thinking about putting some white lube or graphite
down the column. Speaking of steering - the auto-cancel doesn't work on the
turn signals. Is there a 'how to' out there somewhere to troubleshoot
that..
It was a great day for a long drive here in Tampa area. Low 80's - humidity
in the 60's. (not the normal 80/80)
Carl
Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - Verizon has discontinued the mysite
URL. Looking for a new home.
Tampa, FL
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew
Uprichard
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2015 5:01 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tach needle (TR3)
I have just put 100 miles on my newly-restored '57 small-mouth and am
working through the usual "teething" problems: leaks, oil pressure
adjustment, electrical glitches, etc. One thing I cannot work out is that
the needle on the tach swings about quite a bit: it's ok at steady rpm, but
gear changes cause marked fluctuations.
I had the gauge rebuilt by Nisonger and I have a new cable. Any thoughts
why this should be so?
Andrew
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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>The fuel gauge was dead in my car too until I =
remembered the gauge must be grounded. Ran a wire from the nut on =
the bracket to the common ground on the center cluster and it works =
fine.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Andrew<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net] <br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, May 04, =
2015 1:09 AM<br><b>To:</b> 'Andrew Uprichard'; =
triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [TR] Tach needle =
(TR3)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Red letter day for me as well. I took a =
143 mile (round trip) drive in my ‘3. First trip really =
outside of the neighborhood. Total miles about 350 =
(speedometer not hooked up part of the time – it now reads 248). =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Anyway – I am =
having the same nagging issue with the tach. Under load it travels =
fairly smooth but at idle or constant speed it bounces about 250-300 rpm =
in either direction of what it should be. Before installing =
I measured the part of the cable protruding and it was 11/32” =
which was within the specs I was told by Morris who rebuilt the =
unit. (5/16-3/8”)<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I didn’t check the =
other end at the diz – is there a similar issue? =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>The other issues I am =
having are:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>The prop rod rattle others have talked =
about. Going to change out the fasteners at the pivot point =
and see what happens. I had used a pinjoint, washer and cotter pin so it =
is real loose. Will drive a bit without the rod in place to make =
sure that is the rattle.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Still have a =
‘dead’ fuel gauge. It reads ok out of the car in a =
test environment so there must be an issue with wiring. I do not =
want to take the instrument cluster out (again for the fourth time) =
– next weekend I will take the cubby box back out so that I have =
access to do some continuity probes. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>The steering seems to =
bind a bit sometimes. I used the TR4 bushings so that may be the =
problem. It isn’t critical and I am going to see if it =
loosens up with more use. Also thinking about putting some =
white lube or graphite down the column. Speaking of steering =
– the auto-cancel doesn’t work on the turn signals. Is =
there a ‘how to’ out there somewhere to troubleshoot =
that….<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>It was a great day for a =
long drive here in Tampa area. Low 80’s – humidity in =
the 60’s. (not the normal 80/80)<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Carl<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Carl<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>1961 Triumph TR3A =
– TS81802LO<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><a =
href=3D"http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/";>http://mysite.verizon.net/cfm=
tr3a/</a> - Verizon has discontinued the mysite URL. Looking =
for a new home.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Tampa, FL<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Triumphs [<a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:triumphs-bounces@a=
utox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Andrew Uprichard<br><b>Sent:</b> =
Sunday, May 03, 2015 5:01 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br><b=
>Subject:</b> [TR] Tach needle (TR3)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I have just =
put 100 miles on my newly-restored ’57 small-mouth and am working =
through the usual “teething” problems: leaks, oil =
pressure adjustment, electrical glitches, etc. One thing I cannot =
work out is that the needle on the tach swings about quite a bit: =
it’s ok at steady rpm, but gear changes cause marked =
fluctuations.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I had the gauge rebuilt by Nisonger and I have a new =
cable. Any thoughts why this should be =
so?<br><br>Andrew<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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