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Re: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing

To: Alan & Lyn Dunscombe <dunscomb@chch.planet.org.nz>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
From: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 07:16:39 -0800 (PST)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
Importance: Normal
References: <mailman.5.1636484402.16515.triumphs@autox.team.net> <618BA9E2.3010301@chch.planet.org.nz>
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>From the factory when new, there was no paint where you don't see.  The bodies 
>were painted after assembly.  So, rust happens quickly where paint was never 
>applied.  If you prepare and paint everything before assembly, there shouldn't 
>be a huge problem with rust.  The fill panel with it's rubber seals between 
>the bulk head and fender doesn't seal very well.  You just have to be a little 
>creative to improve the seal.  Perhaps inject some expandable foam behind the 
>rubber seals to back them up.  The gutter between the top edge of the fender 
>and hood/bonnet gap got a packing of putty, dumb-dumb, right at the bulkhead 
>from the factory so water and debris wouldn't run down and fill boxed-in space 
>behind the fender fill panel.  With some care and the fact that the car might 
>not be used in the same way it did in the first 60 years of it's life you 
>might not have to be too concerned.  Yes, you could remove the fill panel on 
>occasion to check and clean that space.  Also remove the three bolts at the 
>bottom edge of the fender to help get it good and clean.  Or, just let the 
>next custodian deal with it.  When I built TS46235 every single body fastener 
>got a little anti-seeze, so the fasteners would not rust an be easier to 
>remove. 
Dave Hogye
TS2172LO
TS46235L
TS51651L

>     On 11/10/2021 3:15 AM Alan & Lyn Dunscombe <dunscomb@chch.planet.org.nz> 
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>     Hi all
> 
>     Finally after 40 years driving I am getting the sills & floors on my TR2 
> replaced, currently at the panel beaters having them welded in. So my 
> question is:-
> 
>     How to deal with the dirt & moisture trap made by the "box" enclosed by 
> the bulkhead & sealing plate at the front, the 'A' pillar at the back, the 
> sill & front guard (fender in USA) at the bottom, & the rear of the inner 
> guard etc at the top.
> 
>     We all know that the factory sealing plate & rubber seals at the front 
> are meant to stop the road dirt & moisture getting in, but don't do it very 
> well. Then when it rains the water comes in between the side of the bonnet 
> (hood in USA) & the front guards onto the top of the inner guard (fender), 
> plus at the rear end of the bonnet it runs down from the gutter at the front 
> of the bulkhead into the gap at the rear of the inner guard which is cleverly 
> angled so that all this water drips off the back end into the above mentioned 
> "box" enclosure where it combines with the road dirt etc and eventually rots 
> out the front of the sill and the side kick panel in the cockpit & then the 
> front of the floors.
> 
>     General consensus seem to be that we should remove the bulkhead sealing 
> plates each year and clean out all this accumulated 'crud' and dry out this 
> area before replacing them.
> 
>     Has anyone come up with a way of draining this area so it doesn't stay 
> damp?
> 
>     What is the consensus on the best treatment  of this front part of the 
> sill and bottom of the inner side of the guard etc. to stop rust attacking it?
> 
>     All suggestions gratefully received.
> 
>     cheers,
> 
>     stay safe,
> 
>     Alan     TS3612
> 
>      
> 
>     AW & LJ Dunscombe
>     New Zealand
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     On 10/11/2021 8:00 a.m., triumphs-request@autox.team.net 
> mailto:triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> >         Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
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> > 
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> > mailto:triumphs-request@autox.team.net
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> > 
> >         When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> >         than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> > 
> > 
> >         Today's Topics:
> > 
> >            1. TR4A Pulley Dimensions (Guy Huggins)
> >            2. Re: TR4A Pulley Dimensions (David Friedlander)
> > 
> > 
> >         
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> >         Message: 1
> >         Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 15:41:07 -0600
> >         From: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins@icloud.com> 
> > mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com
> >         To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
> > mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net
> >         Subject: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> >         Message-ID: <89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B@icloud.com> 
> > mailto:89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B@icloud.com
> >         Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> > 
> >         Listers,
> > 
> >         Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley 
> > for the TR4A?
> >         Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the 
> > diameter.
> > 
> >         I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make 
> > timing marks for when I start putting everything back together after the 
> > head gasket work.
> > 
> > 
> >         Cheers,
> > 
> >         Guy D. Huggins
> >         1965 Triumph TR4A
> >         CTC 63569LO
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >         ------------------------------
> > 
> >         Message: 2
> >         Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 19:48:03 -0500
> >         From: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com> 
> > mailto:forzion7@gmail.com
> >         To: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins@icloud.com> 
> > mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com
> >         Cc: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
> > mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net
> >         Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> >         Message-ID:
> >          
> > <CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA@mail.gmail.com> 
> > mailto:CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA@mail.gmail.com
> >         Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > 
> >         Guy;
> > 
> >         If it's the same diameter as the pulley on the TR3A then
> >         the diameter is 5.5 inches. Ten degrees BTDC can be
> >         marked at 1/2" from the pulley TDC timing mark.
> > 
> >         Dave
> > 
> > 
> >         On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 4:43 PM Guy Huggins <guy.huggins@icloud.com> 
> > mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com wrote:
> > 
> >           
> > 
> >             > > > 
> > >             Listers,
> > > 
> > >             Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft 
> > > pulley for the
> > >             TR4A?
> > >             Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to 
> > > measure the
> > >             diameter.
> > > 
> > >             I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make 
> > > timing marks
> > >             for when I start putting everything back together after the 
> > > head gasket
> > >             work.
> > > 
> > > 
> > >             Cheers,
> > > 
> > >             Guy D. Huggins
> > >             1965 Triumph TR4A
> > >             CTC 63569LO
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >             ** triumphs@autox.team.net mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net **
> > > 
> > >             Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > >             Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> > >             http://www.team.net/archive
> > > 
> > >             Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > >             
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7@gmail.com
> > > 
> > >                 
> > > 
> > >         > > 
> >         -------------- next part --------------
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> >  
> > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20211108/86de236b/attachment-0001.htm
> > 
> >         ------------------------------
> > 
> >         Subject: Digest Footer
> > 
> >         _______________________________________________
> > 
> >         Triumphs mailing list
> >         Triumphs@autox.team.net mailto:Triumphs@autox.team.net
> >         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> > 
> > 
> >         ------------------------------
> > 
> >         End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 234
> >         *****************************************
> > 
> > 
> >           
> > 
> >     > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!doctype html>
<html>
 <head>=20
  <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">=20
 </head>
 <body>
  <div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;=
 color: #333333;">
   <span style=3D"font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">From the factor=
y when new, there was no paint where you don't see.&nbsp; The bodies were p=
ainted after assembly.&nbsp; So, rust happens quickly where paint was never=
 applied.&nbsp; If you prepare and paint everything before assembly, there =
shouldn't be a huge problem with rust.&nbsp; The fill panel with it's rubbe=
r seals between the bulk head and fender doesn't seal very well.&nbsp; You =
just have to be a little creative to improve the seal.&nbsp; Perhaps inject=
 some expandable foam behind the rubber seals to back them up.&nbsp; The gu=
tter between the top edge of the fender and hood/bonnet gap got a packing o=
f putty, dumb-dumb, right at the bulkhead from the factory so water and deb=
ris wouldn't run down and fill boxed-in space behind the fender fill panel.=
&nbsp; With some care and the fact that the car might not be used in the sa=
me way it did in the first 60 years of it's life you might not have to be t=
oo concerned.&nbsp; Yes, you could remove the fill panel on occasion to che=
ck and clean that space.&nbsp; Also remove the three bolts at the bottom ed=
ge of the fender to help get it good and clean.&nbsp; Or, just let the next=
 custodian deal with it.&nbsp; When I built TS46235 every single body faste=
ner got a little anti-seeze, so the fasteners would not rust an be easier t=
o remove.&nbsp;</span>
   <br>
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;=
 color: #333333;" class=3D"default-style">
   <span style=3D"font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Dave Hogye</spa=
n>
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;=
 color: #333333;" class=3D"default-style">
   <span style=3D"font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">TS2172LO</span>
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;=
 color: #333333;" class=3D"default-style">
   <span style=3D"font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">TS46235L</span>
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;=
 color: #333333;" class=3D"default-style">
   <span style=3D"font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">TS51651L</span>
  </div>
  <blockquote type=3D"cite">
   <div>
    On 11/10/2021 3:15 AM Alan &amp; Lyn Dunscombe &lt;dunscomb@chch.planet=
.org.nz&gt; wrote:
   </div>
   <div>
    <br>
   </div>
   <div>
    <br>
   </div>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">Hi all</span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">Finally after 40 years driving I am getting the sills &amp; floors on my=
 TR2 replaced, currently at the panel beaters having them welded in. So my =
question is:-</span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">How to deal with the dirt &amp; moisture trap made by the "box" enclosed=
 by the bulkhead &amp; sealing plate at the front, the 'A' pillar at the ba=
ck, the sill &amp; front guard (fender in USA) at the bottom, &amp; the rea=
r of the inner guard etc at the top. </span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">We all know that the factory sealing plate &amp; rubber seals at the fro=
nt are meant to stop the road dirt &amp; moisture getting in, but don't do =
it very well. Then when it rains the water comes in between the side of the=
 bonnet (hood in USA) &amp; the front guards onto the top of the inner guar=
d (fender), plus at the rear end of the bonnet it runs down from the gutter=
 at the front of the bulkhead into the gap at the rear of the inner guard w=
hich is cleverly angled so that all this water drips off the back end into =
the above mentioned "box" enclosure where it combines with the road dirt et=
c and eventually rots out the front of the sill and the side kick panel in =
the cockpit &amp; then the front of the floors.</span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">General consensus seem to be that we should remove the bulkhead sealing =
plates each year and clean out all this accumulated 'crud' and dry out this=
 area before replacing them. </span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">Has anyone come up with a way of draining this area so it doesn't stay d=
amp?</span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">What is the consensus on the best treatment&nbsp; of this front part of =
the sill and bottom of the inner side of the guard etc. to stop rust attack=
ing it?</span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">All suggestions gratefully received.</span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">cheers,</span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">stay safe,</span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">Alan &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; TS3612</span></p>
   <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%=
;">&nbsp;</span></p>
   <pre class=3D"moz-signature">AW &amp; LJ Dunscombe
New Zealand


</pre>
   <br>On 10/11/2021 8:00 a.m., <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs-request@autox.te=
am.net" class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated">triumphs-request@autox.team.net<=
/a> wrote:
   <blockquote type=3D"cite">
    <pre>Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
 <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviat=
ed">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
 <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs"; class=3D"moz-t=
xt-link-freetext">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs</a>
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
 <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs-request@autox.team.net"; class=3D"moz-txt-link-a=
bbreviated">triumphs-request@autox.team.net</a>

You can reach the person managing the list at
 <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs-owner@autox.team.net"; class=3D"moz-txt-link-abb=
reviated">triumphs-owner@autox.team.net</a>

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. TR4A Pulley Dimensions (Guy Huggins)
   2. Re: TR4A Pulley Dimensions (David Friedlander)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 15:41:07 -0600
From: Guy Huggins <a href=3D"mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com"; class=3D"moz-tx=
t-link-rfc2396E">&lt;guy.huggins@icloud.com&gt;</a>
To: Triumph Mailing List <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; class=
=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E">&lt;triumphs@autox.team.net&gt;</a>
Subject: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
om" class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E">&lt;89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155=
B@icloud.com&gt;</a>

Listers,

Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the T=
R4A?
Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the diameter=
.

I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks =
for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket wor=
k.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO





------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 19:48:03 -0500
From: David Friedlander <a href=3D"mailto:forzion7@gmail.com"; class=3D"moz-=
txt-link-rfc2396E">&lt;forzion7@gmail.com&gt;</a>
To: Guy Huggins <a href=3D"mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com"; class=3D"moz-txt-=
link-rfc2396E">&lt;guy.huggins@icloud.com&gt;</a>
Cc: Triumph Mailing List <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; class=
=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E">&lt;triumphs@autox.team.net&gt;</a>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
Message-ID:
 <a href=3D"mailto:CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA@mail=
.gmail.com" class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E">&lt;CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5=
U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA@mail.gmail.com&gt;</a>

Guy;

If it's the same diameter as the pulley on the TR3A then
the diameter is 5.5 inches. Ten degrees BTDC can be
marked at 1/2" from the pulley TDC timing mark.

Dave


On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 4:43 PM Guy Huggins <a href=3D"mailto:guy.huggins@ic=
loud.com" class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E">&lt;guy.huggins@icloud.com&gt;</a=
> wrote:

  </pre>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     <pre>Listers,

Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the
TR4A?
Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the
diameter.

I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks
for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket
work.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO



** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbrevi=
ated">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **

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    </pre>
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