Alpiners,
Here is a partial list of what you need to put on your
X-Mas list.
Buy The ARP rod bolts, Shot peen the rods, then re-size the
big ends.
Procure a good cam shaft, have it ground to specs that meet
your driving needs. I have specs that will likely be suitable.
Striving for 130+ BHP in a street driven car will reward niether
you as a driver, nor the car for its efforts, and shorter life.
If the power range, that you select puts power beyond 6000RPM,
you must also change the springs to higher rates. ISKY sells
suitible springs.
Have your crankshaft thoroughly inspected and magnafluxed.
Open #2 and #3 oil feeds in the crank.
Lighten your flywheel, and have the the crank, flywheel and HB
zero ballanced as a set.
Have some flat top pistons made up, and use 3.247 moly rings.
This will still give you 2 potential rebuilds "3 builds", even though
you are starting at .037 over.
Why .037?
It is a metric bore, but it is the closest bore available that will
allow
you to use off the shelf moly piston rings.
Your head, should have new valves installed if needed, but
definately use new guides. Be certain that the rockers dont
have valve stem grooves in them, they will, so just replace
them win a used set that doesnt.
Get a 3 angle valve job.
Port match the intake and exhaust to the head ports.
Perform intake and exhaust port modification per Rootes SII
tuining manual (other istructions also exist).
Deshroud the intake valve in the combution chamber, then
volume match each combution chamber.
I dont have my volume analisys data with me, but there is
a final combustion chamber volume to strive for.
You should shoot for a compression ratio of 10/1.
With this compression, your old distributor will work well
without the mechanical advance. use the 26 deg advance
counterweights if possible, and have the distributor advance
verified at a distributor shop.
1592 engines should use 1725 oil pumps with 1592 distributor
drive cogs.
Perform adjustable oil pressure relief valve mod.
Use an oil cooler (dont use the SV setup it is inadequate).
The above combo COULD net you in the 125 BHP range with
dual webers, but probably only 110 BHP with strombergs.
Those fortunate enough to own a solex manifold would do
well considering the use of a 40DGAF bolt on, as it is very
tunable, and flows way more than a 32/36 progressive weber.
This doesnt talk about building a monster motor, because
even these opperations will cost around $2000.
I did all the above on my last motorr (125BHP±)
This motor is borderline as a street car as the engine
fails to make torque below 3000 RPM, and requires somewhat
of a launch to get the car going. SV 7 1/2 inch clutches just
love that too.
It turns out that the head cost more than any other opperation
on my engine. Huge valves and thier associated costs
will push the average budget through the roof, and into orbit.
BTW Ramon, it turns out that that head cost me over $1200.
valve cost after modification was $50, and you dont want to
know what it cost to put those seats in.
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 09:56:59 CDT