Chris,
Congratulations again, you are making some good progress (all progress
is good progress, even if a few problems surface along the way).
A very useful tool for this sort of thing is a 12 volt tracing light.
Usually easy to find, also easy to make. Consists of a 12 volt
automotive bulb with two wires soldered to it. Use alligator clips on
the ends (go to Radio Shack and buy a bag of jumper wires, take two out,
cut off one end and solder the cut ends to the bulb).
Take one lead and clip to a good ground, then use the other lead and
trace those hot electrons. One nice thing about the alligator clips is
that you can clip it on to a terminal, or use it to grip an ice pick
blade, thereby giving you a sharp probe. This is convenient to scratch
through oxidation or to slip under insulating sleeves. The brightness
of bulb gives an indication of the resistance to the battery. Using the
wiring diagram, start at some easy to reach point, like the fuse
terminal brown wire, and move up or down the wiring diagram depending on
whether or not you have voltage present.
Of course a voltmeter can also be used, but not everyone owns one and
there are a few tricks to understand in their use.
Good luck,
-Roger
Christopher Albers wrote:
>
> Well, the engine's in and oil pressure is good. Battery hooked up,
> starter works, horn works, headlights & tail lights work, blower works,
> warning light simulator works. I'm assuming the wipers would work too
> if they were hooked up. The common thread? All of these item are NOT
> routed thru the fuse block. Nothing else works. This includes the
> parking lights (should these also be unfused?), license plate lights,
> turn signals, panel lights, lighter and dash accessory (radio).
>
> Anybody have any clues or suggestions as to where I might start
> looking? Bear in mind I'm electrically impaired (novice).
> Christopher
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 10:40:46 CDT