let's see if i have this correct. you now have lowered springs of an unknown
rate, the wheels are no longer aligned, castor and camber are unknown and it
"feels better"? wow, and all the time we used to spend on a skid pad. let me
know how oit works. also, since this is an autox vs a race car, too stiff can
be a problem. a 90 degreee turn at high speed is often gentler in a road race
than a 90 degree turn around a pylon. since autox is a stab it an steer it type
of event, too stiff can cause the car to skate and jump rather than stick adn
go. good luck, ted
Joe Curry wrote:
> Bob,
> I can't disagree with anything you have said. However (and there is always a
>however), I wanted to change the spring rate. This is because as stock
> springs (even though they were stiffer stock GT6 springs) cutting a couple of
>coils out of them will hopefully make them stiff enough to qualify as
> competition springs. They certainly are stiffer and with the adjustable SPAX
>shocks, I think that by the amount feel of the reflex when I bounce on
> the front end, I think I have accomplished my objective. But only the next
>event will determine whether this is indeed the case.
>
> Cutting the springs was a very cheap and quick alternative to buying
>competition springs and if I end up with the equivalent spring rate, it will be
> money well spent.
>
> Regards,
> Joe (C)
>
> Bob Bownes wrote:
> >
> > I need to quote the immortal Andy Banta on this.
> >
> > "Repeat After Me. 'It is a system. Everything is related. It is a
> > System'"
> >
> > Any time you touch *any* tunable parameter in a suspension setup, go
> > back and look at all the others. You've changed something else. Yes,
> > even toe.
> >
> > Lowering the frame by shortening the spring puts the hub higher relative
> > to the frame than before. Doing so puts your hub in a different position
> > as far as bump steer goes. If it is the same on both sides, you've
> > changed the toe. Same argument goes for the camber.
> >
> > The problem with cutting the springs is, as mjb pointed out yesterday,
> > you are going to have the wrong spring rate. Racing requires a much
> > higher spring rate than driving on the street, and autox, even higher
> > still. (IMHO)
> >
> > "Its a System."
> >
> > Took me alot of years to get it through my head, despite the best
> > efforts of folks like Andy, Scott Fisher, and Chris K.
> >
> > iii
> >
> > Joe Curry wrote:
> > >
> > > I want to thank everyone who weighed in with options on lowering my
>Spit's front end. Today, I went ahead and shortened my springs by another 1.5"
> > > and it indeed had the desired effect. The frame at the front outrigger
>is now 4" from the pavement.
> > >
> > > However, this was not without other complications.
> > >
> > > My muffler is now even closer to the pavement and I await with baited
>breath to see if I drag it off at the next event.
> > >
> > > A couple of other observations that I made afterwards are:
> > >
> > > 1. The front now has additional negative camber, which I think I'll
>leave for now to see if it helps. It is not excessive for a race car and I
>think
> > > it will help.
> > >
> > > 2. It appears that lowering the car also added a bit of additional
>toe-out. I adjusted this a bit to bring it in some, but I would like to ask
>what
> > > the consensus of the list is on front in toe adjustment.
> > >
> > > Thanks again for all the suggestions and comments. I probably am not
>finished tinkering (are we ever??) In fact, I may yet buy a set of competition
> > > springs.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Joe (C)
> > >
> > > P.S. I was surprised that the springs are still long enough that they
>don't flop around inside the spring perches when the suspension is unloaded!
--
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@q1.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
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