Dang Joe, gettin' down on the V-twin boys eh? Speaking of jap bikes having never
been apart, last time I saw your bike (WOS) there was a part over there, another
part over here, more parts to our right, and the big one was leaking green stuff
(which I thought was anti-freeze at the time)
Ed (In the spirit of Trash Joe Day)
Joe Amo wrote:
> """PS: I've got a 50 year old Harley, still running strong. When was the
>last
> time you saw even a 20 year old Kawasaki on the street? Yeah, a few maybe
> and that's cool when you do. """
>
> THE POINT BEING, THOSE JAP BIKES YOU SEE THAT OLD RUNNING AROUND, HAVE NOT
>BEEN
> APART, HOW MANY TIMES HAS THAT 50 YR OLD MOTOR BEEN APART?, and you must
> realize that 20 yr old Kaw (and other jap stuff) has run with turbos (Charlie
> Toy, Don Vesco) with nearly ALL stock internals from 230 to 330 mph!!!!
>
> AND when you compare the hp per liter engine size vs miles between rebuilds,
> well...........................
>
> Joe (knowing full well why Harley Factory offers a MOTOR rebuild program for
>the
> NEW EVO motors) Amo
>
> "Clay, Dale" wrote:
>
> > Hey Dave, take it easy on us old air cooled, push rod guys. Your same
> > arguments could apply to flatheads, but I don't want them to go away!
> > Different strokes, ya know ...
> >
> > Plenty of race Harley's run synthetics (Red Line, Amsoil, Mobile 1, etc.)
> > and do just fine. One reason I suspect Harley doesn't want you running
> > synthetics is they have oil refined for them under their own label and a lot
> > of the new Harley riders are afraid to use anything not recommended by The
> > Motor Company (emphasis added).
> >
> > I'm really glad to see this string take off, good stuff.
> >
> > Dale
> >
> > PS: I've got a 50 year old Harley, still running strong. When was the last
> > time you saw even a 20 year old Kawasaki on the street? Yeah, a few maybe
> > and that's cool when you do. Hey it's like women; some like tall blondes,
> > some red heads with freckles, some even like the round sort. Vive le
> > difference!
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dave Dahlgren [mailto:ddahlgren@snet.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 4:30 AM
> > To: Ed Van Scoy
> > Cc: tim schoeny; Skip Higginbotham; John Beckett;
> > land-speed@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Additives
> >
> > Ed you do realize why 90% or all harleys built are still on
> > the road today don't you?
> > It's because the other 10% made it home in one piece.......
> > Aren't these the engines so ineffiecnt that they pretty much
> > race against themselves. They quote #'s like 120 hp for a
> > hot rod piece at 110 inches.. geez some kid in a old
> > Kawasaki street bike can out run that..they might want to
> > swap that thing out for Chucks old datsun piece..
> >
> > And a quiz question for the list what is the largest engine
> > builder in the world in volume of engines sold per year
> > sheer number of engines..
> > Dave Dahlgren
> >
> > Ed Van Scoy wrote:
> > >
> > > FWIW, Corvette comes from the factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic, so
> > they
> > > obviously aren't worried about break-in. Since we are on this topic,
> > question for
> > > bike guys (or others) Do you use synthetic oil? Reason I ask is there is a
> > raging
> > > argument in the Harley world about pros & cons of synthetics. Mobil 1
> > already makes
> > > an air-cooled engine synthetic.......Lots of manufacturers use
> > semi-synthetic from
> > > the factory. Harley will void your warrenty if they find it in your
> > bike........For
> > > some reason the manual says that if you find the oil level low on your
> > Harley &
> > > Harley oil isn't available, use diesel oil! Can any of you lube-gurus
> > explain that
> > > to me?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ed
> > >
> > > tim schoeny wrote:
> > >
> > > > My cam grinder and short block builder both recommend "conventional" oil
> > for
> > > > break-in and then(if you want) synthetic for racing..Honda rings take
> > forever to
> > > > seat and starting out with syn. is not recommended.Just what I do.
> > > > Tim
> > Schoeny
> > > >
> > > > Skip Higginbotham wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > By the way, if you put Pro-blend in a new engine's oil it will take
> > about 5
> > > > > times longer to break the rings in. Guess where the benefit is? Better
> > > > > lubrication.
> > > > > S
> > > > >
> > > > > Not true, John.
> > > > > Break-in should take about 10% longer but there is no reason not to
> > use the
> > > > > oil.
> > > > > Skip Higginbotham
> > > > >
> > > > > At 01:58 PM 1/10/01 , you wrote:
> > > > > >It was my understanding the synthitic oils of any kind are a NO NO in
> > new
> > > > > >componets. They do not allow the proper break-in to take place, and
> > should
> > > > > >only be used in components after the normal break-in has been
> > finished.
> > > > > >What say ye?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >John Beckett
> > > > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > > > >From: "DOUG ODOM" <popms@thegrid.net>
> > > > > >To: "Chris R Harris" <yesford@clear.net.nz>
> > > > > >Cc: "land-speed" <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > > > > >Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:23 PM
> > > > > >Subject: Re: Additives
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >> Chris; Slick 50 is nothing more than Dupont Teflon repackaged. In
> > the
> > > > > >> states we can buy the K-mart teflon for less money and it's the
> > same
> > > > > >> thing. A friend of mine did some testing with mobil one and teflon
> > on
> > > > > >> the dyno. He said he made the most power with one Quart mobil one
> > and
> > > > > >> five quarts teflon. The bearings never took a hit. I thought about
> > using
> > > > > >> it myself instead of straight mobil one but I guess I lack the
> > testicle
> > > > > >> fortitude. I have used Amsoil in transmissions and rear ends with
> > good
> > > > > >> luck but the one time I tried it in a motor it started to wear the
> > > > > >> bearings. Change back to Valvoline 50w and the bearings
> > (vandervell) ran
> > > > > >> all season with no wear. Just my 2 cents worth.
> > > > > >> Doug Odom in big ditch
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Chris R Harris wrote:
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> > Compliments of the season to all on the list, thinking
> > positively, 2001
> > > > > >is
> > > > > >> > going to be a great year.
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> > New subject additives. What is the lists opinion on the subject,
> > do you
> > > > > >have a
> > > > > >> > favorite, are they strictly 'mouse milk', most certainly don't
> > stack up
> > > > > >to
> > > > > >> > the claims made, some definitely do help. The one I use in my
> > manual
> > > > > >trans and
> > > > > >> > diff on the roadster (definitely not the engine though) is Slick
> > 50. My
> > > > > >> > experience here was using a heavy rotary slasher on the farm.
> > Powered by
> > > > > >a 100
> > > > > >> > hp tractor, these very basic slashers swinging a heavy hub with 4
> > > > > >swinging
> > > > > >> > blades, had a simple right angle bevel gear box between the PTO
> > shaft
> > > > > >and
> > > > > >> > blade. In heavy going that box would get stink'in hot, couldn't
> > touch
> > > > > >it,
> > > > > >> > always used the recommended oil. The addition of Slick made a
> > huge
> > > > > >reduction
> > > > > >> > in box temperature, thats what convinced me it was doing its job.
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> > Lets hear your opinion including others like good assembly lubes
> > or
> > > > > >other
> > > > > >> > special brews you have for particular purposes, there has to be
> > plenty
> > > > > >out
> > > > > >> > there.
> > > > > >> >
> > > > > >> > Chris Harris New Zealand..
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