I'd like to appologize to anyone offended by my PS. My real point was
everyone should be doing their own thing. There has been too much "us vs.
them" in motorcycles both ways.
I've owned and raced Japanse, European AND American bikes, carts and cars.
I make no judgements on what anybody here does. I enjoy the diversity.
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Amo [mailto:jkamo@rapidnet.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 1:33 PM
To: Clay, Dale
Cc: 'Dave Dahlgren'; Ed Van Scoy; tim schoeny; Skip Higginbotham; John
Beckett; land-speed@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Additives
"""PS: I've got a 50 year old Harley, still running strong. When was the
last
time you saw even a 20 year old Kawasaki on the street? Yeah, a few maybe
and that's cool when you do. """
THE POINT BEING, THOSE JAP BIKES YOU SEE THAT OLD RUNNING AROUND, HAVE NOT
BEEN
APART, HOW MANY TIMES HAS THAT 50 YR OLD MOTOR BEEN APART?, and you must
realize that 20 yr old Kaw (and other jap stuff) has run with turbos
(Charlie
Toy, Don Vesco) with nearly ALL stock internals from 230 to 330 mph!!!!
AND when you compare the hp per liter engine size vs miles between rebuilds,
well...........................
Joe (knowing full well why Harley Factory offers a MOTOR rebuild program for
the
NEW EVO motors) Amo
"Clay, Dale" wrote:
> Hey Dave, take it easy on us old air cooled, push rod guys. Your same
> arguments could apply to flatheads, but I don't want them to go away!
> Different strokes, ya know ...
>
> Plenty of race Harley's run synthetics (Red Line, Amsoil, Mobile 1, etc.)
> and do just fine. One reason I suspect Harley doesn't want you running
> synthetics is they have oil refined for them under their own label and a
lot
> of the new Harley riders are afraid to use anything not recommended by The
> Motor Company (emphasis added).
>
> I'm really glad to see this string take off, good stuff.
>
> Dale
>
> PS: I've got a 50 year old Harley, still running strong. When was the
last
> time you saw even a 20 year old Kawasaki on the street? Yeah, a few maybe
> and that's cool when you do. Hey it's like women; some like tall blondes,
> some red heads with freckles, some even like the round sort. Vive le
> difference!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Dahlgren [mailto:ddahlgren@snet.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 4:30 AM
> To: Ed Van Scoy
> Cc: tim schoeny; Skip Higginbotham; John Beckett;
> land-speed@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Additives
>
> Ed you do realize why 90% or all harleys built are still on
> the road today don't you?
> It's because the other 10% made it home in one piece.......
> Aren't these the engines so ineffiecnt that they pretty much
> race against themselves. They quote #'s like 120 hp for a
> hot rod piece at 110 inches.. geez some kid in a old
> Kawasaki street bike can out run that..they might want to
> swap that thing out for Chucks old datsun piece..
>
> And a quiz question for the list what is the largest engine
> builder in the world in volume of engines sold per year
> sheer number of engines..
> Dave Dahlgren
>
> Ed Van Scoy wrote:
> >
> > FWIW, Corvette comes from the factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic, so
> they
> > obviously aren't worried about break-in. Since we are on this topic,
> question for
> > bike guys (or others) Do you use synthetic oil? Reason I ask is there is
a
> raging
> > argument in the Harley world about pros & cons of synthetics. Mobil 1
> already makes
> > an air-cooled engine synthetic.......Lots of manufacturers use
> semi-synthetic from
> > the factory. Harley will void your warrenty if they find it in your
> bike........For
> > some reason the manual says that if you find the oil level low on your
> Harley &
> > Harley oil isn't available, use diesel oil! Can any of you lube-gurus
> explain that
> > to me?
> > Thanks,
> > Ed
> >
> > tim schoeny wrote:
> >
> > > My cam grinder and short block builder both recommend "conventional"
oil
> for
> > > break-in and then(if you want) synthetic for racing..Honda rings take
> forever to
> > > seat and starting out with syn. is not recommended.Just what I do.
> > >
Tim
> Schoeny
> > >
> > > Skip Higginbotham wrote:
> > >
> > > > By the way, if you put Pro-blend in a new engine's oil it will take
> about 5
> > > > times longer to break the rings in. Guess where the benefit is?
Better
> > > > lubrication.
> > > > S
> > > >
> > > > Not true, John.
> > > > Break-in should take about 10% longer but there is no reason not to
> use the
> > > > oil.
> > > > Skip Higginbotham
> > > >
> > > > At 01:58 PM 1/10/01 , you wrote:
> > > > >It was my understanding the synthitic oils of any kind are a NO NO
in
> new
> > > > >componets. They do not allow the proper break-in to take place, and
> should
> > > > >only be used in components after the normal break-in has been
> finished.
> > > > >What say ye?
> > > > >
> > > > >John Beckett
> > > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > > >From: "DOUG ODOM" <popms@thegrid.net>
> > > > >To: "Chris R Harris" <yesford@clear.net.nz>
> > > > >Cc: "land-speed" <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > > > >Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:23 PM
> > > > >Subject: Re: Additives
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >> Chris; Slick 50 is nothing more than Dupont Teflon repackaged. In
> the
> > > > >> states we can buy the K-mart teflon for less money and it's the
> same
> > > > >> thing. A friend of mine did some testing with mobil one and
teflon
> on
> > > > >> the dyno. He said he made the most power with one Quart mobil one
> and
> > > > >> five quarts teflon. The bearings never took a hit. I thought
about
> using
> > > > >> it myself instead of straight mobil one but I guess I lack the
> testicle
> > > > >> fortitude. I have used Amsoil in transmissions and rear ends with
> good
> > > > >> luck but the one time I tried it in a motor it started to wear
the
> > > > >> bearings. Change back to Valvoline 50w and the bearings
> (vandervell) ran
> > > > >> all season with no wear. Just my 2 cents worth.
> > > > >> Doug Odom in big ditch
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Chris R Harris wrote:
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > Compliments of the season to all on the list, thinking
> positively, 2001
> > > > >is
> > > > >> > going to be a great year.
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > New subject additives. What is the lists opinion on the
subject,
> do you
> > > > >have a
> > > > >> > favorite, are they strictly 'mouse milk', most certainly don't
> stack up
> > > > >to
> > > > >> > the claims made, some definitely do help. The one I use in my
> manual
> > > > >trans and
> > > > >> > diff on the roadster (definitely not the engine though) is
Slick
> 50. My
> > > > >> > experience here was using a heavy rotary slasher on the farm.
> Powered by
> > > > >a 100
> > > > >> > hp tractor, these very basic slashers swinging a heavy hub with
4
> > > > >swinging
> > > > >> > blades, had a simple right angle bevel gear box between the PTO
> shaft
> > > > >and
> > > > >> > blade. In heavy going that box would get stink'in hot, couldn't
> touch
> > > > >it,
> > > > >> > always used the recommended oil. The addition of Slick made a
> huge
> > > > >reduction
> > > > >> > in box temperature, thats what convinced me it was doing its
job.
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > Lets hear your opinion including others like good assembly
lubes
> or
> > > > >other
> > > > >> > special brews you have for particular purposes, there has to be
> plenty
> > > > >out
> > > > >> > there.
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > Chris Harris New Zealand..
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