Guys,
I agree w/ David as that has been my experience
also.However...................................
If you're building new, think about this; (food for thought)
I sell (like new) 31 spline NASCAR axels for $35 each, however, they're for
a "full floating" rear which is standard on all NASCAR cars. There're good
for at least 800 HP which is what the new SB2 motors are putting out today.
I sell a complete rear, (very strong housing, axels, drive plates, Wilwood
calipers, brake pads and rotors, hub caps, new seals, bearings and hubs) for
about $650. These bearings are about four inches in diameter and you can ask
Keith how freely
my car rolls. Add another $350 and I'll give you your choice of
centersection (any ratio from 2:75 on up)
You take the hubcaps off and slide the axels out of the center section in
less than a minute. In another 10 minutes you can have the new centersection
installed, close it up and you're ready to go. (not much longer than a quick
change and more horsepower)
Grib (who's always selling)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Freiburger" <FreiburD@emapUSA.com>
To: <kturk@ala.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>; <joetimney@dol.net>;
<ardunbill@webtv.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: Axles
> I just got back from 4 weeks gone and am diving back in.
>
> Here's the axle deal: Axles come through-hardened (like a Strange alloy
axle) or induction-hardened (like an OE axle). The Rockwell on a racing
alloy axle will often be lower than on a production axle because racing
axles are often designed for drag racing where the axles need to give, or
twist just a bit, to survive a launch. Because they are softer all the way
through, they can twist further than an induction-hardened axle before they
reach the yield (which is the point at which they bend and do not return to
their original shape). With an induction-hardened or surface-hardened axle,
there is a brittle outer shell with a very soft core. The outer shell is
where the strength is. However, the hard shell can easily crack when
twisted. Once it cracks, it's all over. The soft core of the
induction-hardened axle has very little strength. Materials and tempering
affect the point at which this becomes an issue.
> The other factor in axle strength is diameter. When you say "a 31-spline
axle is stronger than a 28-spline axle," the real point is that the
31-spline axle has a larger diameter throughout, and is therefore stronger.
In the case of a Ford 9-inch, the larger axle will generally also have a
better bearing design, which for land-speed racing, is probably more
important (less roller-bearing speed thanks to a larger surface.)
> Here's another thing I'm not too sure about: Strange once told me that
some racing axles are not good for impact-loading perpendicular to the axle
centerline. That means hitting a pot-hole, like perhaps on a bad day at El
Mirage. So maybe an OE axle is a decent choice.
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