Larry-
My method of install really does make things easier, & it makes setting up the
electric fan & radiator so much faster. For those who I
have never bored with this trick, I cut away the slam panel- that's the piece
with the hood (bonnet) latch on it- between the radiator
supports. This removes a piece about 20" long & makes an engine install into a
pleasurable activity. For those of you who wish to be
able to latch your hood (bonnet) at some future time, secure an extra complete
slam panel from a salvaged car, trim enough from each end
so that you can overlay the salvaged piece on top of the remains of the
original. The bolts holding the radiator braces & the 4, 1/4" x
28 machine screws in the front lip are more than enough to ensure a firm panel
to support the hood latch. I always eliminate the
vertical support in the center, as well. I did that on my first conversion,
over 15 years ago, and on all successive conversions that I
have been involved with. In almost 500,000 miles of MGV8 driving, I have never
had a problem with the arrangement, nor has anyone else
who has done it.
As to the Rover/T-5 combination, If it is an early Rover, no problem. If it is
a later model, you will need a 1/4"-3/8" spacer to
prevent the tranny input shaft from putting so much pressure on the crank that
it locks up the engine.
If you use a GM starter on a Rover motor, you will need a spacer. The GM
starter is slightly smaller in diameter than the Rover piece.
It will bolt up, but will not be centered, except by accident, & you will not
have the support the engine block should provide. It only
requires a piece of aluminum tubing of the correct size to be pinned in place.
There was a very complete discussion of this in one of
the back issues of the V8 Newsletters.
Jim Stuart
(very full of it- turkey?)
Larry Hoy wrote:
> >> 5) I am using a T5 Camero transmission and back by the tail there are 2
> >> protrusions which have holes through them, to be bolted to something, which
> >> while trying to install the engine hung up on the MGB rear cross member.
> >> Made it real had to get the engine in. When I pull the engine I will use a
> >> belt sander and remove these.
>
> >Remove the cross member during installation/removal of the engine, it's only
>4 bolts.
>
> Jim he's probably talking about the permanent Xmember here??. I cut off that
>hunk of aluminum your talking about, and bent the lip
> of the xmember down.
>
> Jim you've got the "straight shot" install method, on the "regular" Bs we
>have to have the engine tipped so much, and pushed back so
> much, to get it in, the T-5 won't clear the rear permanent cross member.
>Bruce, that's a big hunk of aluminum to try to sand off.
>
> You need a GM starter for you GM bellhousing.
>
> Depending on who's engine mount brackets you are using the 14 x 2 Edelbrock
>should fit ... if you use the dropped bottom style air
> filter housing.
>
> You better talk to Jim Stuart or check the archives about fitting the Rover
>engine to the GM bellhousing and T-5 transmission.
>
> Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving.
>
> Larry Hoy
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