>Should I look at replacing this pump with an original?
In my opinion, "yes". The correct SU pump is designed to work with the
rest of the fuel system. In my experience, the only problem with an SU
pump is behind the wheel. The owner often neglects the pump during
routine maintenance. I know people who will check air pressure and oil
and water level before every drive, but who won't look at the pump in
100,000 miles.
This leads to eventual deterioration of the internal components - points,
filter,
diaphram, etc. The pump should have points replaced every 20,000 to
30,000 miles, regardless. It only takes a few minutes and costs less than
$10.
Continuously running pumps always have the chance of causing flooding
since there is nothing to stop the fuel flow except the very tiny needle
valve
in the float chambers. They also may be delivering fuel at much too high
a pressure. The optimal pressure for a pre-TF car should be around 1.5 PSI
while a later car (TF, MGA, MGB) should be around 4 PSI.
Chances are that if you take the time to overhaul your existing pump, you'll
save money and maintain the originality of the car. Even if you have to
replace the diaphram, the points, and the filter (yes Virginia, there IS a
fuel
filter inside an SU pump), the total cost, if you can do the work yourself,
should be around $30 - $40. Total time is around 1 hour.
>I notice that MOSS sells a replacement fuel pump that they say is more
>reliable than the SU. I can't tell if it runs on or is pressure
sensitive.
I understand these are original style pumps. Thus they do shut off
.
>My bogus pump is new - Should I drop another $90 US and get the SU or can I
>fix my fuel problem with carb ajustments?
Do you also fix soft tires by buying stiffer springs?
You fix fuel pump problems by fixing the fuel pump. If your problem is
fuel leakage past the needle valve, then 1) buy the Grose Jet
replacements and 2) lower the fuel pressure by correcting the pump to
the correct pressure - even if this means replacement.
Don't adjust the carbs unless the carbs are out of adjustment. Why is is
that every mechanic unfamiliar with LBCs always wants to tinker with
the carbs. (Like every other mechanical problem can be solved by
adjusting carbs.) The SU carb's beauty is in its simplicity. Once set
up properly, they almost never need touching again.
>Q: What is a good way to de-carbonize plugs ? (I can sand or scrape them,
>but is there a cool solvent or something that removes carbon?)
Even if there was a good solvent, it would likely cost $5 or $6. This is
about
the cost of new plugs. Replace the plugs!
Regards,
Lew Palmer
lew.palmer@uci.com
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