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Re: bodywork or boneyard?

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: bodywork or boneyard?
From: Matt Liggett <mliggett@seven.ucs.indiana.edu>
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 1995 14:48:41 -0500
At Thu, 07 Dec 1995 11:00:22 +0500, Christopher A. Lenth writes:
> 2]  Find an early 70's B with a ~solid body but little else and transplant 
> the necessary good bits from my car.  Ballpark ideas on price and 
> availability also appreciated.

I would immediately start looking at this option.  BUT, be 
_absolutely_certain_ that you are not getting a car which is just as 
bad or worse than yours.  Also remember which parts of your car you 
could transplant to a mediocre bodyshell.  The structural parts 
(rockers, floor, trans tunnel) are the most vital here.

> 3] Get the steel work done (a must if I keep the car intact in my opinion), 
> shoot it with some primer and wait 'till I graduate (2 years) to attack the 
> paint job etc.  I have a feeling that the cost of this alone will frighten me

Most auto primers are hygroscopic (sp?).  They will soak up H2O for 2 
years and you'll have surface rust again in less than 1 year.  If you 
must wait for decent paint, shoot it with some rattle-can enamel or 
something.  You need to seal out the water.

> 4] Seal up the car as best I can, throw the cover over it, buy the SAAB 900 
> my friend wants to sell me for $1500, and demote the B to an occasional 
> driver until I can afford to spend the time and money to do it right.

This is a viable option and a Sabb 900 would be a practical fun car for $1500.  
Not sure what your winters are like but the Saab could be a real blast (fwd and 
plenty of oomph).

Yours in minimal LBC content,
--
http://seven.ucs.indiana.edu/~mliggett |||        Matt Liggett       |
$_="5673089a34120b12c048de12f\n"; ///  |||   <mliggett@indiana.edu>  |
@j=split//," erthJusanoPlck.";   ///   |||   '70 Midget '74 Bronco   |
s/./$j[hex $&]/ge;print         ///    |||       '78 Civic 1200      |



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